Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising alkylcellulose

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least water, at least alkylcellulose, at least a first nonvolatile oil chosen from silicone oils and/or fluoro oils, and at least a second hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, dieters or triesters of a C2-C8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, which are optionally hydroxylated; and polyesters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids.

The present invention is directed toward proposing cosmetic compositionscomprising alkylcellulose, which are intended in particular for makingup and/or caring for the lips or the skin, especially the lips, whichare capable of producing a deposit, especially a makeup deposit, whichshows good cosmetic properties, especially in terms of gloss, comfortand absence of tackiness.

The compositions targeted according to the invention are morespecifically aqueous compositions, which are particularly appreciatedfor formulating water-soluble dyestuffs.

In general, cosmetic compositions need to afford an esthetic effect whenapplied to the skin and/or the lips, and to maintain this estheticeffect over time.

In fact, the production of an esthetic effect, after applying a cosmeticcomposition, results from an assembly of properties intrinsic to thecomposition which are expressed in terms of makeup performance, cosmeticproperties such as comfort on application, makeup precision, makeupuniformity, gloss and/or wear property of the gloss over time.

In particular, producing a homogeneous composition that is stable overtime, and improving the gloss and/or the wear property over time ofcosmetic products, once applied to the skin or the lips, is an ongoingconcern of formulators working in the field of lipsticks, in stick formor in gloss form for the lips, and other skincare and/or lipcareproducts.

Ethylcellulose is already known for its capacity, when it is dissolvedin sufficient amount in cosmetic and/or therapeutic compositions, toimprove the adherence and the wear property of the resulting films. Ithas also been demonstrated that ethylcellulose dissolved in sufficientamount in compositions makes it possible, by virtue of its properties asa film-forming agent, to facilitate the formation of a film on the skinand/or the lips, and to improve the water resistance of this film.

Unfortunately, ethylcellulose, and alkylcelluloses in general (with analkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms), is of limitedsolubility in the majority of the solvents commonly used in cosmeticand/or dermatological formulations. In general, monoalcohols containingfrom 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, butanol, methanol orisopropanol, are preferred for dissolving sufficient amounts ofethylcellulose in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions. Evaporationof the C₂-C₈ monoalcohols leads, after application of the correspondingcosmetic composition to the skin or the lips, firstly to concentrationof the deposit and secondly to the formation of a coat on the surface ofthe skin or the lips that has a very good wear property. For example,document WO 96/36310 proposes cosmetic compositions especiallycomprising ethylcellulose dissolved in ethyl alcohol (SDA 38B-190 or SDA40B-190 solvents).

However, these volatile monoalcohols have the drawback of beingpotentially irritant to the skin and/or the lips, and consequently mayprove to be detrimental in the case of repeated use on the skin.

In order to overcome this problem, it has been proposed in document U.S.Pat. No. 5,908,631 to use, as an alternative to C₂-C₈ monoalcohols, acertain number of solvents for ethylcellulose, such as lanolin oil,certain triglycerides, certain propylene glycol or neopentyl glycolesters, isostearyl lactate, and mixtures thereof.

Unfortunately, replacing these C₂-C₈ monoalcohols, which are volatilecompounds, with these nonvolatile solvents may on the other hand proveto be detrimental in terms of comfort and of tackiness of the resultingdeposit.

Consequently, there is still a need for cosmetic compositions, which arefree of C₂-C₈ monoalcohol, comprising a sufficient amount ofalkylcellulose, and which are capable of forming on the skin and/or thelips a deposit that has satisfactory gloss and comfort properties andthat is not tacky.

In the context of caring for the lips, it is more particularly desirableto introduce into lipstick compositions active agents such asmoisturizers, for example in order to contribute toward moisturizing thelips and for the wear comfort of the deposit.

However, lipstick formulations (whether they are solid or liquid) aregenerally anhydrous, and the introduction of active agents such asglycerol, for example, is the cause of stability problems of thecomposition (exudation). The introduction of water into standardarchitectures causes problems of instability over time of thecompositions (i.e. they show phase separation or exudation phenomena).

There is more particularly a need for compositions for making up and/orcaring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising a sufficient amount ofalkylcellulose, which are homogeneous and stable over time (which do notform grains and do not undergo phase separation), which are easy toapply, which allow the production of a thin, light, uniform, glossy andcomfortable deposit that, in particular, is sparingly tacky ornon-tacky, and which, in certain embodiments, have a satisfactory levelof wear property.

The object of the present invention is, precisely, to satisfy theseneeds.

As emerges from the examples presented below, the inventors havediscovered that the abovementioned expectations can be satisfied byformulating the alkylcellulose in the form of a dispersion in water witha mixture of specific oils other than C₂-C₈ monoalcohols.

Thus, according to a first of its aspects, a subject of the presentinvention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologicallyacceptable medium:

-   -   at least water, in particular at least 5% by weight of water;    -   at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises        between 1 and 6 carbon atoms and preferably between 1 and 3        carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose;    -   at least a first nonvolatile oil chosen from silicone oils        and/or fluoro oils; and    -   at least a second hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil, chosen        from:        -   C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;        -   optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of            a C₂-C₈ monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C₂-C₈            alcohol;        -   esters of a C₂-C₈ polyol and of one or more C₂-C₈ carboxylic            acids.            In a particular embodiment, a subject of the present            invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a            physiologically acceptable medium:    -   at least water, in particular at least 5% by weight of water;    -   at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises        between 1 and 6 carbon atoms and preferably between 1 and 3        carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose;    -   at least a first nonvolatile oil chosen from silicone oils        and/or fluoro oils; and    -   at least a second hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil, chosen        from:        -   C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;        -   optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of            a C₂-C₈ monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C₂-C₈            alcohol;        -   esters of a C₂-C₈ polyol and of one or more C₂-C₈ carboxylic            acids, and    -   at least a sodium lauryl sulfate; and optionally and additional        nonionic or anionic surfactant.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, a cosmeticcomposition according to the invention also comprises at least onesilicone gum.

According to one particular embodiment, a cosmetic composition accordingto the invention also comprises at least one organopolysiloxaneelastomer.

According to yet another particular embodiment, a composition accordingto the invention also comprises at least one silicone resin.

According to yet another particular embodiment, a composition accordingto the invention also comprises at least one active agent chosen frommoisturizers, cicatrizing agents and antiaging agents.

Advantageously, a cosmetic composition according to the invention ishomogeneous, stable (no exudation or phase separation) over time(especially after 1 month at room temperature), easy to apply to theskin and/or the lips, and produces a uniform deposit that shows goodproperties in terms of gloss, comfort (the deposit is thin and light),and non-tacky or sparingly tacky, and, in certain embodiments,contributes toward caring for the lips.

In particular, in the context of a composition for caring for the lips,since the composition according to the invention comprises water, thiswater lends itself particularly to the introduction of hydrophilicactive agents into the composition, in particular without any problem ofstability of the composition and/or of the active agent.

Moreover, since the deposit on the lips of a composition according tothe invention shows a good level of wear property, this ensures theremanence of the active agent on the lips and thus improves the careefficacy (moisturizing, cicatrizing and/or antiaging effect) on thelips.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is easy toapply, and can lead to precise application of makeup to the contours ofthe lips.

A composition according to the invention also proves to be particularlysuitable for the use of water-soluble dyes.

As emerges from the examples below, the combination of the oils underconsideration according to the invention proves to be particularlyadvantageous for formulating alkylcelluloses, preferably such asethylcellulose, in said composition.

A composition according to the invention advantageously allows the useof an effective amount of alkylcellulose. For the purposes of thepresent invention, the term “effective amount” means an amount that issufficient to obtain the expected effect, as described previously.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises atleast 1% and particularly preferably at least 4% by weight ofalkylcellulose (preferentially ethylcellulose) solids relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

Particularly preferably, a composition according to the inventioncomprises from 4% to 60% by weight of alkylcellulose (preferablyethylcellulose) solids, more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight andmore preferably still from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the composition.

The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to denote amedium that is particularly suitable for the application of acomposition according to the invention to the skin and/or the lips.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is liquid.

The term “liquid” means a composition that is capable of flowing underits own weight, at room temperature (20° C.) and at atmospheric pressure(760 mmHg), as opposed to “solid” compositions.

A composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of anemulsion of oil in an aqueous phase.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is aliquid lipstick, for instance a gloss.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the inventioncomprises less than 5% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), inparticular less than 4% by weight, especially less than 3% by weight,more particularly less than 2% by weight and in particular less than 1%by weight, or even is totally free of silicone surfactant.

According to another of its aspects, a subject of the present patentapplication is a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for thelips and/or the skin, in particular the lips, comprising at least onestep that consists in applying to the lips and/or the skin at least onecomposition as defined previously.

In particular, a subject of the present patent application is a cosmeticprocess for making up and/or caring for the lips, comprising at leastone step that consists in applying to the lips at least one cosmeticcomposition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

-   -   at least water;    -   at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises        between 1 and 6 carbon atoms and preferably between 1 and 3        carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose;    -   at least a first nonvolatile oil chosen from silicone oils        and/or fluoro oils; and    -   at least a second hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil, chosen        from:        -   C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;        -   optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of            a C₂-C₈ monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C₂-C₈            alcohol;        -   esters of a C₂-C₈ polyol and of one or more C₂-C₈ carboxylic            acids.

Ethylcellulose

A composition according to the invention comprises at leastalkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 1 and 6carbon atoms and preferably between 1 and 3 carbon atoms, preferablyethylcellulose.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose(preferentially ethylcellulose) is present in a composition according tothe invention in a content (solids) ranging from 1% to 60% by weight andin particular greater than or equal to 4% by weight.

Particularly preferably, the composition according to the inventioncomprises from 4% to 60% by weight of alkylcellulose solids, morepreferably from 5% to 30% by weight and more preferably still from 5% to20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The alkylcellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising a chain formedfrom β-anhydroglucose units linked together via acetal bonds. Eachanhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all orsome of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to thefollowing reaction:

RONa+C₂H₅Cl→ROC₂H₅+NaCl, in which R represents a cellulose radical.

Advantageously, the alkylcellulose is chosen from methylcellulose,ethylcellulose and propylcellulose.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcelluloseis ethylcellulose.

It is a cellulose ethyl ether.

Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for eachanhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words toa content of alkoxy groups of 54.88%

The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according tothe invention are preferentially polymers with a degree of substitutionwith ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, inother words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44% to50%.

According to a preferred mode, the alkylcellulose (preferablyethylcellulose) is used in a composition of the invention in the form ofparticles dispersed in an aqueous phase, like a dispersion of latex orpsuedolatex type. The techniques for preparing these latex dispersionsare well known to those skilled in the art.

The product sold by the company FMC Biopolymer under the name AquacoatECD-30, which consists of a dispersion of ethylcellulose in a proportionof about 26.2% by weight in water and stabilized with sodium laurylsulfate and cetyl alcohol, is most particularly suitable for use as anaqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose.

According to one particular embodiment, the aqueous dispersion ofethylcellulose, in particular the product Aquacoat ECD, may be used in aproportion of from 3% to 90% by weight, in particular from 10% to 60% byweight, preferably from 20% to 50% by weight of ethylcellulosedispersion relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the composition ofthe invention thus comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionicand nonionic surfactants, in particular as described more preciselyhereinbelow, and especially from anionic surfactants such as sodiumlauryl sulfate.

These surfactants may be introduced more particularly, at least partly,by the aqueous dispersion of alkylcellulose used in the preparation of acomposition of the invention.

Thus, according to another of its aspects, the present invention alsorelates to a process for preparing a composition according to theinvention, characterized in that the alkylcellulose is used therein inthe form of a stable aqueous dispersion of alkylcellulose, saiddispersion especially comprising at least one surfactant chosen fromanionic and nonionic surfactants.

As mentioned previously, the alkylcellulose, preferably in the form of astable aqueous dispersion, is used according to the present invention incombination with a mixture of oils as described more particularlyhereinbelow.

Physiologically Acceptable Medium

Besides the compounds indicated previously, a composition according tothe invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to denote amedium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of theinvention to the skin and/or the lips, for instance water, or the oilsor organic solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions.

The physiologically acceptable medium (acceptable tolerance, toxicologyand feel) is generally adapted to the nature of the support onto whichthe composition is to be applied, and also to the form in which thecomposition is to be conditioned.

Fatty Phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fattyphase and especially a liquid fatty phase, comprising at least a firstnonvolatile silicone and/or fluoro oil, and at least a second particularnonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

The term “oil” means a water-immiscible nonaqueous compound that isliquid at room temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760mmHg).

First Nonvolatile Silicone and/or Fluoro Oil

According to one of its aspects, a composition according to theinvention comprises at least a first nonvolatile oil chosen fromsilicone oils and/or fluoro oils.

The term “nonvolatile” refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure is nonzero and less than 0.02 mmHg(2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10⁻³ mmHg (0.13 Pa).

Preferably, the nonvolatile oil(s) chosen from silicone oils and/orfluoro oils is/are present in a total content ranging from 5% to 75% byweight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight or alternatively from 15%to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Nonvolatile Silicone Oil

According to a first preferred embodiment, the nonvolatile oil is asilicone oil.

The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one siliconatom.

The nonvolatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may bechosen especially from silicone oils especially with a viscosity at 25°C. of greater than or equal to 9 centistokes (cSt) (9×10⁻⁶ m²/s) andless than 800 000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600 000 cSt andpreferably between 100 and 500 000 cSt. The viscosity of this siliconemay be measured according to standard ASTM D-445.

According to a first embodiment, the nonvolatile silicone oil is anonphenyl silicone oil.

The nonvolatile nonphenyl silicone oil may be chosen from:

-   -   nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs),    -   PDMSs comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent        and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each        containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,    -   PDMSs comprising aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or functional        groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,    -   polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with a fluoro        group, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes,    -   polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such        as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,    -   polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or        polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the inventioncontains at least one nonphenyl silicone oil, in particular such as alinear (i.e. noncyclic) oil.

Representative examples of these nonvolatile nonphenyl linear siliconeoils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones modified withoptionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups suchas hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

When the nonvolatile silicone oil is a dimethicone, it is moreparticularly present in a content of greater than or equal to 5% byweight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Such a content makes it possible in particular to obtain the desiredgloss effect.

The nonphenyl silicone oil may be chosen especially from the siliconesof formula (I):

in which:

R₁, R₂, R₅ and R₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radicalcontaining 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R₃ and R₄ are, together or separately,an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical,an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxylradical or an amine radical,

n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, inparticular whose viscosity at 25° C. is between 9 centistokes (cSt)(9×10⁻⁶ m²/s) and 800 000 cSt.

As nonvolatile silicone oils that may be used according to theinvention, mention may be made of the compounds of formula (I) forwhich:

-   -   the substituents R₁ to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p        and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, such as the        product sold under the name SE30 by the company General        Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the        company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500        000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name        Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by the company Dow Corning,    -   the substituents R₁ to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p        and n are such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt, such as the        product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by        the company Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name        Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker,    -   the substituents R₁ to R₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p        and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as the        product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the        company Dow Corning, or under the name Wacker-Belsil DM 350 by        the company Wacker,

the substituents R₁ to R₆ represent a methyl group, the group Xrepresents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is700 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 bythe company Momentive.

According to a second embodiment, a composition according to theinvention contains at least one nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil as firstnonvolatile oil.

Representative examples of these nonvolatile phenyl silicone oils thatmay be mentioned include:

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methylor a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents aphenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprisesat least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least fiveor at least six.

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methylor a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents aphenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, said organopolysiloxane comprises at leastthree phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described previously may beused. Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl,tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl organopolysiloxanes.

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. Such a phenylsilicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the referencePH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name:1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluidmay also be used.

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents—CH₂—CH(CH₃)(Ph).

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below:

in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR′ represents a group —OSiMe₃and y is 0 or ranges between 1 and 1000, and z ranges between 1 and1000, such that compound (V) is a nonvolatile oil.

According to a first embodiment, y ranges between 1 and 1000. Use may bemade, for example, of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, soldespecially under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker.

According to a second embodiment, y is equal to 0. Use may be made, forexample, of phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, sold especially underthe reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VI) below,        and mixtures thereof:

in which:

-   -   R₁ to R₁₀, independently of each other, are saturated or        unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based        radicals,    -   m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between        0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.

Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the summ+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800.Preferably, q is equal to 0.

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VII) below,        and mixtures thereof:

in which:

-   -   R₁ to R₆, independently of each other, are saturated or        unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based        radicals,    -   m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0        and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R₁ to R₆, independently of each other, represent asaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₃₀ and especially C₁-C₁₂hydrocarbon-based radical and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl orbutyl radical.

R₁ to R₆ may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methylradical.

Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or n=0 and/or p=0 or 1 may apply, informula (VII).

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VIII), and        mixtures thereof:

in which:

-   -   R is a C₁-C₃₀ alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl        radical,    -   n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and    -   m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, with the proviso that the        sum n+m ranges from 1 to 100.

In particular, the radicals R of formula (VIII) and R₁ to R₁₀ definedpreviously may each represent a linear or branched, saturated orunsaturated alkyl radical, especially of C₂-C₂₀, in particular C₃-C₁₆and more particularly C₄-C₁₀, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C₆-C₁₄ andespecially C₁₀-C₁₃ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical whose aryl andalkyl residues are as defined previously.

Preferably, R of formula (VIII) and R₁ to R₁₀ may each represent amethyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical,or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII)with a viscosity at 25° C. of between 5 and 1500 mm²/s (i.e. 5 to 1500cSt), and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm²/s (i.e.5 to 1000 cSt) may be used.

As phenyl silicone oils of formula (VIII), it is especially possible touse phenyl trimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), theoil Silbione 70663V30 from Rhône-Poulenc (28 cSt) or diphenyldimethicones such as Belsil oils, especially Belsil PDM1000 (1000 cSt),Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker. Thevalues in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25° C.

-   -   the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula,        and mixtures thereof:

in which:

-   -   R₁, R₂, R₅ and R₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical        containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,    -   R₃ and R₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical        containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical,    -   X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a        hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,    -   n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average        molecular mass of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than        150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.    -   The phenyl silicones are more particularly chosen from phenyl        trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl        trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,        diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl        trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the phenyl silicones are chosen from phenyltrimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the nonvolatilephenyl silicone oil according to the invention ranges from 500 to 10 000g/mol.

As preferred nonvolatile silicone oils, examples that may be mentionedinclude silicone oils such as:

-   -   phenyl silicones (also known as phenyl silicone oil) such as        trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (for instance Belsil PDM 1000        from the company Wacker (MW=9000 g/mol) (cf. formula (V) above),        phenyl trimethicones (such as the phenyl trimethicone sold under        the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones,        phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl        dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes,        2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylpentaphenyl        trisiloxane (such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning        PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic fluid by Dow Corning) (cf. formula (III)        above),    -   nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes        comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at        the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from        2 to 24 carbon atoms,    -   and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the first nonvolatile oil is a phenyl silicone oil.

Preferably, a phenyl silicone oil is used. According to one preferredembodiment, the phenyl silicone oil is chosen from trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicones.

According to one preferred embodiment, the nonvolatile silicone oil(s)are present in a total content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, inparticular from 10% to 40% by weight and preferably from 15% to 30% byweight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Nonvolatile Fluoro Oil

According to a second embodiment, the first nonvolatile oil is a fluorooil.

The term “fluoro oil” means an oil containing at least one fluorineatom.

The fluoro oils that may be used in the invention may be chosen fromfluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones as describedin document EP-A-847 752, and perfluoro compounds.

According to the invention, the term “perfluoro compounds” meanscompounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced withfluorine atoms.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the fluoro oilaccording to the invention is chosen from perfluoro oils.

As examples of perfluoro oils that may be used in the invention, mentionmay be made of perfluorodecalins and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the fluoro oil ischosen from perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, and especially the Fiflow®products sold by the company Créations Couleurs. In particular, use maybe made of the fluoro oil whose INCI name isperfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference Fiflow 220 bythe company F2 Chemicals.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to theinvention comprises one or more nonvolatile silicone oils (preferablyphenyl silicone oils) and/or nonvolatile fluoro oils, in a proportion ofat least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,especially from 5% to 75% by weight and particularly preferably from 10%to 45% by weight.

According to one particular embodiment, said first nonvolatile oil ischosen from phenyl silicone oils and fluoro oils, in particulartrimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.

Specific Second Hydrocarbon-Based Nonvolatile Oil

The composition according to the invention comprises, besides thenonvolatile oil chosen from silicone oils and/or fluoro oils, one ormore nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils, referred to according to theinvention as “second oil”, chosen from:

-   -   C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, in particular        branched C₁₆-C₂₆ monoalcohols;    -   optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a        C₂-C₈ monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C₂-C₈        alcohol;    -   esters of a C₂-C₈ polyol and of one or more C₂-C₈ carboxylic        acids.

Preferably, said “second oil” is chosen from:

-   -   C₁₀-C₂₆, monoalcohols, preferably branched C₁₆-C₂₆ monoalcohols;    -   optionally hydroxylated monoesters of a C₂-C₈ carboxylic acid        and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol;    -   optionally hydroxylated diesters of a C₂-C₈ dicarboxylic acid        and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol;    -   optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C₂-C₈ tricarboxylic acid        and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol;    -   esters of a C₂-C₈ polyol and of one or more C₂-C₈ carboxylic        acids.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil formed essentially from,or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygenatoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, Si, F and P. Thehydrocarbon-based oil is thus different than a silicone oil or a fluorooil.

In the present case, said second oils comprise at least one oxygen atom.

In particular, said second nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil comprisesat least one alcohol function (it is then an “alcohol oil”) and/or atleast one ester function (it is then an “ester oil”).

The ester oils that may be used in the compositions according to theinvention may especially be hydroxylated.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to theinvention comprises one or more second nonvolatile hydrocarbon-basedoil(s) in a content ranging from 5% to 75%, in particular from 10% to50% by weight and preferably from 20% to 45% by weight relative to itstotal weight.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the nonvolatilehydrocarbon-based oil and the alkylcellulose (in particularethylcellulose) are used in the composition according to the inventionin a “nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based second oil(s)/alkylcellulose” weightratio of between 1 and 20 and preferably between 2 and 15. Particularlypreferably, the “nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based secondoil(s)/alkylcellulose” weight ratio is between 3 and 10.

More particularly, the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil used in acomposition according to the invention may especially have plasticizingproperties, i.e. it can impart suppleness and comfort to the depositformed with the composition according to the invention.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, said second oil is aC10-C₂₆ alcohol, preferably a monoalcohol.

Preferably, the C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, andbranched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.Preferably, the C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols are fatty alcohols.

As examples of fatty alcohols that may be used according to theinvention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, ofsynthetic origin or alternatively of natural origin, for instancealcohols derived from plant material (coconut, palm kernel, palm, etc.)or animal material (tallow, etc.). Needless to say, other long-chainalcohols may also be used, for instance ether alcohols or Guerbetalcohols. Finally, use may also be made of certain more or less longfractions of alcohols of natural origin, for instance coconut (C₁₂ toC₁₆) or tallow (C₁₆ to C₁₈) or compounds of diol or cholesterol type.

Use is preferably made of a fatty alcohol, preferably a monoalcohol,comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to22 carbon atoms.

As particular examples of fatty alcohols that may be used in the contextof the present invention, mention may be made especially of laurylalcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearylalcohol, palmityl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture ofcetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol,arachidyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol andoctyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, said second oil is octyldodecanol.

According to a second embodiment, said second oil is an ester oil chosenfrom:

-   -   optionally hydroxylated monoesters of a C₂-C₈ carboxylic acid        and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol,    -   optionally hydroxylated diesters of a C₂-C₈ dicarboxylic acid        and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol; such as diisopropyl adipate,        2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate or diisostearyl adipate,    -   optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C₂-C₈ tricarboxylic acid        and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol, such as citric acid esters, such as        trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate,        tributyl citrate or acetyl tributyl citrate,    -   esters of a C₂-C₈ polyol and of one or more C₂-C₈ carboxylic        acids, such as glycol diesters of monoacids, such as neopentyl        glycol diheptanoate, or glycol triesters of monoacids, such as        triacetin.

Advantageously, the composition contains less than 10% by weight ofmonoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and preferably lessthan 5%.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition may be free ofmonoalcohol containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the compositioncomprises a total content of nonvolatile oils (i.e. all the nonvolatileoils of the composition, irrespective of their nature) of between 40%and 80% by weight and preferably between 45% and 75% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the nonvolatile oils(i.e. all the nonvolatile oils of the composition, irrespective of theirnature) and the alkylcellulose are used in the composition according tothe invention in a nonvolatile oil(s)/alkylcellulose weight ratio ofbetween 1 and 20 and preferably between 4 and 15.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to theinvention comprises:

-   -   between 4% and 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably        ethylcellulose,    -   between 15% and 50% by weight of water, and    -   between 45% and 75% by weight of nonvolatile oils.

Additional Oils

The composition according to the invention may comprise, besides thenonvolatile “first oil” chosen from silicone oils and/or fluoro oils,and also the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based “second oil”, at least oneadditional oil different than these oils.

In particular, the additional oil may be chosen from nonvolatile apolarhydrocarbon-based oils and/or volatile oils, in particular volatilehydrocarbon-based oils, volatile silicone oils and/or volatile fluorooils.

According to a first embodiment, the additional oil is a nonvolatileapolar hydrocarbon-based oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “apolar oil” meansan oil whose solubility parameter at 25° C., δa, is equal to 0(J/cm³)^(1/2).

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in theHansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the articleby C. M. Hansen: “The three dimensional solubility parameters”, J. PaintTechnol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen Space:

-   -   δ_(D) characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from        the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;    -   δ_(p) characterizes the Debye interaction forces between        permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between        induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;    -   δ_(h) characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as        hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and    -   δ_(a) is determined by the equation: δ_(a)=(δ_(p) ²+δ_(h) ²)½.

The parameters δ_(p), δ_(h), δ_(D) and δ_(a) are expressed in(J/cm³)^(1/2).

Preferably, the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is free ofoxygen atoms.

Preferably, the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosenfrom linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin,such as:

-   -   liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,    -   liquid petroleum jelly,    -   naphthalene oil,    -   polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965        g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500        (MW=2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,    -   hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® sold by the        company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H300 E sold or manufactured by        the company Amoco (MW=1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or        manufactured by the company Synteal (MW=6000 g/mol) and Rewopal        PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW=1000        g/mol),    -   decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers,        especially Indopol L-14,    -   polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10        (MW=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g/mol) sold or        manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals,    -   and mixtures thereof.

According to a second embodiment, the additional oil is a nonvolatilepolar hydrocarbon-based oil, different than said “second oil”.

In particular, said additional polar nonvolatile oil different than saidsecond oil may be an ester oil, in particular containing between 18 and70 carbon atoms.

Examples that may be mentioned include monoesters, diesters ortriesters.

The ester oils may especially be hydroxylated.

The nonvolatile ester oil may preferably be chosen from:

-   -   monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total,        in particular the monoesters of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁        represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising        from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based        chain, which is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40        carbon atoms, on condition that R₁+R₂≧18, for instance Purcellin        oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C₁₂ to C₁₅        alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl        neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate,        isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or        polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl        myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate,        2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl        palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate.        Preferably, they are esters of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁        represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing        from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based        chain that is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40        carbon atoms provided that R₁+R₂≧18. Preferably, the ester        comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total. Preferred        monoesters that may be mentioned include isononyl isononanoate,        oleyl erucate and/or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate;    -   diesters, especially comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms        in total and in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in        total. It is especially possible to use diesters of dicarboxylic        acids and of monoalcohols, preferably such as diisostearyl        malate, or glycol diesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as        neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or poly(2)glyceryl diisostearate        (especially such as the compound sold under the trade reference        Dermol DGDIS by the company Alzo);    -   triesters, especially comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms        in total, in particular such as triesters of a tricarboxylic        acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate,        or glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as        poly(2)glyceryl triisostearate;    -   tetraesters, especially with a total carbon number ranging from        35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of        a monocarboxylic acid, for instance pentaerythrityl        tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate,        pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl        tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate, poly(2)glyceryl tetraisostearate or        pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate;    -   polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid        dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in        patent application FR 0 853 0,853,634, in particular such as        dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may especially be        made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the        name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol        copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and        esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA;    -   esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic or        dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of diol dimer and of fatty        acid and esters of diol dimer and of dicarboxylic acid dimer, in        particular which may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer        derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated        fatty acid especially of C₈ to C₃₄, especially of C₁₂ to C₂₂, in        particular of C₁₆ to C₂₀ and more particularly of C₁₈, such as        esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, for        instance those sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under        the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;    -   vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymers, for instance the        product sold under the name Antaron V-216 (also known as Ganex        V216) by the company ISP (MW=7300 g/mol),    -   hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as fatty acid triglycerides        (which are liquid at room temperature), especially of fatty        acids containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or        octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil; mention may be made        in particular of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric        triglycerides, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate,        and C₁₈₋₃₆ acid triglycerides such as those sold under the        reference Dub TGI 24 sold by Stéarineries Dubois,        and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil,        ximenia oil and pracaxi oil;    -   and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition is free ofadditional nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil different than said secondoil.

According to a third embodiment, the additional oil is a volatile oil.

The additional volatile oil may especially be a silicone oil, ahydrocarbon-based oil, which is preferably apolar, or a fluoro oil.

According to one embodiment, the additional volatile oil is a siliconeoil and may be chosen especially from silicone oils with a flash pointranging from 40° C. to 102° C., preferably with a flash point of greaterthan 55° C. and less than or equal to 95° C., and preferentially rangingfrom 65° C. to 95° C.

As additional volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention,mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones with a viscosity atroom temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8×10⁻⁶ m²/s), andespecially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl oralkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile siliconeoils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especiallyof dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt,octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane,heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane,octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane anddodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a second embodiment, the additional volatile oil is afluoro oil, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane orperfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a third embodiment, the additional volatile oil is ahydrocarbon-based oil, which is preferably apolar.

The additional apolar volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may have a flashpoint ranging from 40° C. to 102° C., preferably ranging from 40° C. to55° C. and preferentially ranging from 40° C. to 50° C.

The additional hydrocarbon-based volatile oil may especially be chosenfrom hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbonatoms, and mixtures thereof, and especially:

-   -   branched C₈-C₁₆ alkanes such as C₈-C₁₆ isoalkanes (also known as        isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and,        for example, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or        Permethyl,    -   linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and        n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references,        respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures        thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), mixtures of        n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1        and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company        Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the additional volatile oil(s)may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight andespecially from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight ofsaid composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is free ofadditional volatile oil.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises from 4 to 30% byweight of alkylcellulose, preferably of ethylcellulose, from 15 to 50%by weight of water, and from 45 to 75% by weight of nonvolatile oils.

Other Fatty Substances

Besides the oils described previously, the composition underconsideration according to the invention may also comprise at least onesolid fatty substance chosen from waxes and pasty fatty substances, andmixtures thereof.

Wax(es)

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least onewax.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “wax” means a lipophiliccompound, which is solid at room temperature (25° C.), with a reversiblesolid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater thanor equal to 30° C., which may be up to 120° C.

The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the inventionare chosen from solid waxes that may or may not be deformable at roomtemperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixturesthereof.

Hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax or Chineseinsect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax,esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumachwax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite;polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis andwaxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may especially be used.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation ofanimal or plant oils containing linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains.

Among these waxes that may especially be mentioned are hydrogenatedjojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil,hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil,bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrastearate sold under the name Hest2T-4S by the company Heterene, andbis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest2T-4B by the company Heterene.

The waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of plantoils, such as castor oil or olive oil, for instance the waxes sold underthe names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 bythe company Sophim, may also be used. Such waxes are described in patentapplication FR-A-2 792 190.

It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously besubstituted polysiloxanes, preferably of low melting point.

Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be madeespecially of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810(Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin-Etsu), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481(General Electric).

The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428,2434 and 2440 (Goldschmidt), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (Wacker), and also(C₂₀-C₆₀) alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C₃₀-C₄₅) alkyldimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 bythe company GE-Bayer Silicones.

It is also possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes modified withsilicone or fluoro groups, for instance: siliconyl candelilla, siliconylbeeswax and fluoro beeswax from Koster Keunen.

The waxes may also be chosen from fluoro waxes.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the inventionis free of wax.

Pasty Fatty Substances

The composition under consideration according to the invention may alsocomprise at least one pasty fatty substance.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty fattysubstance” is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound thatundergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, exhibitinganisotropic crystal organization in the solid state, and that comprises,at a temperature of 23° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound can beless than 23° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at23° C. can represent 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquidfraction at 23° C. preferably represents between 15% and 85% and morepreferably between 40% and 85% by weight.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to thetemperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis(DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of apasty substance or of a wax may be measured using a differentialscanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under thename MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (depending on the case) placed in acrucible is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from −20° C.to 100° C., at the heating rate of 10° C./minute, then is cooled from100° C. to −20° C. at a cooling rate of 10° C./minute and finallysubjected to a second temperature rise passing from −20° C. to 100° C.at a heating rate of 5° C./minute. During the second temperature rise,the variation in the difference between the power absorbed by the emptycrucible and the crucible containing the sample of paste or wax as afunction of the temperature is measured. The melting point of thecompound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peakof the curve representing the variation in the difference in powerabsorbed as a function of the temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23° C. is equalto the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23° C. to the enthalpy offusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by thecompound in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. Thepasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass isin crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in theliquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under thecurve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanningcalorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920by the company TA Instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10° C. perminute, according to standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The heat of fusion ofthe pasty compound is the amount of energy required to make the compoundchange from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The heat of fusion consumed at 23° C. is the amount of energy absorbedby the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at23° C., constituted of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. preferablyrepresents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound.When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. isequal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of thepasty compound is less than or equal to 32° C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. is equal tothe ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32° C. to the heat of fusionof the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32° C. iscalculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23° C.

The pasty fatty substance is preferably chosen from synthetic compoundsand compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance may be obtainedby synthesis from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from:

-   -   lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as lanolin alcohol,        oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such        as isopropyl lanolate, and oxypropylenated lanolins,    -   polymeric or nonpolymeric silicone compounds, for instance        polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular masses,        polydimethylsiloxanes containing side chains of the alkyl or        alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially        stearyl dimethicones,    -   polymeric or nonpolymeric fluoro compounds,    -   vinyl polymers, especially:        -   olefin homopolymers,        -   olefin copolymers,        -   hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,        -   linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of            alkyl(meth)acrylates preferably containing a C₈-C₃₀ alkyl            group,        -   oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters            containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups,        -   oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers            containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups,        -   liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification            between one or more C₂-C₁₀₀ and preferably C₂-C₅₀ diols,    -   esters and polyesters,    -   and mixtures thereof.

The pasty fatty substance may be a polymer, especially ahydrocarbon-based polymer.

A preferred silicone and fluoro pasty fatty substance ispolymethyltrifluoropropylmethylalkyldimethylsiloxane, manufactured underthe name X22-1088 by Shin-Etsu.

When the pasty fatty substance is a silicone and/or fluoro polymer, thecomposition advantageously comprises a compatibilizer such asshort-chain esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, mention may be made especially ofcopolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C₆-C₃₀alkylene oxides. Preferably, the weight ratio of the ethylene oxideand/or propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from5/95 to 70/30. In this family, mention will be made especially of blockcopolymers comprising C₆-C₃₀ alkylene oxide blocks with a molecularweight ranging from 1000 to 10 000, for example apolyoxyethylene/polydodecylene glycol block copolymer such as the ethersof dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 oxyethylene orOE units) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Among the esters, the following are especially preferred:

-   -   esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in        particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which        some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a        mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid,        stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid,        especially such as those sold under the brand name Softisan 649        by the company Sasol;    -   phytosterol esters;    -   pentaerythritol esters;    -   esters formed from:        -   at least one C₁₆₋₄₀ alcohol, at least one of the alcohols            being a Guerbet alcohol, and        -   a diacid dimer formed from at least one unsaturated C₁₈₋₄₀            fatty acid,

such as the ester of a dimer of fatty acids and of tall oil comprising36 carbon atoms and of a mixture i) of Guerbet alcohols comprising 32carbon atoms and ii) of behenyl alcohol; the ester of a dimer oflinoleic acid and of a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols,2-tetradecyloctadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyleicosanol (36carbon atoms);

-   -   non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation        between a linear or branched C₄-C₅₀ dicarboxylic acid or        polycarboxylic acid and a C₂-C₅₀ diol or polyol,    -   polyesters resulting from the esterification between a        polycarboxylic acid and an aliphatic hydroxylated carboxylic        acid, such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H sold by the        Japanese company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, which are esters resulting        from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with        dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid; and    -   aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification        between an ester of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid and an        aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example the product sold under        the trade name Salacos HCIS (V)-L by the company Nisshin Oil.

A Guerbet alcohol is the reaction product of the Guerbet reaction, whichis well known to those skilled in the art. It is a reaction fortransforming a primary aliphatic alcohol into its β-alkyl dimericalcohol with loss of one equivalent of water.

The aliphatic carboxylic acids described above generally comprise from 4to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. They are preferablychosen from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid,2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid,dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoicacid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid,octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid,isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid anddocosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The aliphatic carboxylic acids are preferably branched.

The aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are advantageously derivedfrom an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid comprising from 2 to 40 carbonatoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to10 hydroxyl groups and better still from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Thealiphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are especially chosen from:

a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylatedaliphatic monocarboxylic acids;

b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphaticmonocarboxylic acids;

c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphaticpolycarboxylic acids;

d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphaticpolycarboxylic acids;

e) partial or total esters of C₂ to C₁₆ aliphatic polyols that havereacted with a monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated aliphaticmonocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid,

f) and mixtures thereof.

The aliphatic esters of an ester are advantageously chosen from:

-   -   the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of        hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1        to 1 (1/1), known as hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate,    -   the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of        hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1        to 2 (1/2), known as hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate,    -   the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of        hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1        to 3 (1/3), known as hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate,    -   and mixtures thereof.

The pasty fatty substance(s) may be present in an amount ranging from0.5% to 30% by weight and especially from 1% to 20% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition.

A composition used according to the invention may comprise, besides theabovementioned compounds, at least one structuring agent chosen fromsemicrystalline polymers, and mixtures thereof.

Semicrystalline Polymer

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at leastone semicrystalline polymer, in particular a semicrystalline polymer oforganic structure whose melting point is greater than or equal to 30° C.

Preferably, the total amount of semicrystalline polymer(s) representsfrom 2% to 20% by weight, for example from 3% to 15% and better stillfrom 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “polymers” means compoundscomprising at least two repeating units, preferably at least threerepeating units and more especially at least ten repeating units.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “semicrystalline polymer”means polymers comprising a crystallizable portion and an amorphousportion and having a first-order reversible change of phase temperature,in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition). The crystallizableportion is either a side chain (or pendent chain) or a block in thebackbone.

When the crystallizable portion of the semicrystalline polymer is ablock of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block has a chemicalnature different than that of the amorphous blocks; in this case, thesemicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of thediblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion isa chain that is pendent on the backbone, the semicrystalline polymer maybe a homopolymer or a copolymer.

The terms “organic compound” and “having an organic structure” meancompounds containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and optionallyheteroatoms such as S, O, N or P, alone or in combination.

The melting point of the semicrystalline polymer is preferably less than150° C.

The melting point of the semicrystalline polymer is preferably greaterthan or equal to 30° C. and less than 100° C. More preferably, themelting point of the semicrystalline polymer is preferably greater thanor equal to 30° C. and less than 70° C.

The semicrystalline polymer(s) according to the invention are solid atroom temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with amelting point of greater than or equal to 30° C. The melting pointvalues correspond to the melting point measured using a differentialscanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the nameDSC 30 by the company Mettler, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10° C.per minute. (The melting point under consideration is the pointcorresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of thethermogram).

The semicrystalline polymer(s) according to the invention preferablyhave a melting point that is higher than the temperature of thekeratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particularthe skin or the lips.

According to the invention, the semicrystalline polymers areadvantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially to at least 1% byweight, at a temperature that is higher than their melting point.Besides the crystallizable chains or blocks, the blocks of the polymersare amorphous.

For the purposes of the invention, the expression “crystallizable chainor block” means a chain or block which, if it were obtained alone, wouldchange from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly,depending on whether one is above or below the melting point. For thepurposes of the invention, a “chain” is a group of atoms, which arependent or lateral relative to the polymer backbone. A “block” is agroup of atoms belonging to the backbone, this group constituting one ofthe repeating units of the polymer.

According to one preferred embodiment, the semicrystalline polymer ischosen from:

-   -   homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the        polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable        hydrophobic side chains,    -   polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable        block,    -   polycondensates of aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic/aromatic        polyester type,    -   copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via metallocene        catalysis.

The semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may inparticular be chosen from:

-   -   block copolymers of polyolefins of controlled crystallization,        whose monomers are described in EP-A-0 951 897,    -   polycondensates, especially of aliphatic or aromatic polyester        type or of aliphatic/aromatic polyester type,    -   copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared via metallocene        catalysis,    -   homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable        side chain and homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one        crystallizable block in the backbone, for instance those        described in document U.S. Pat. No. 5,156,911,    -   homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable        side chain, in particular bearing fluoro group(s), such as those        described in document WO-A-01/19333,    -   and mixtures thereof.

Examples of semicrystalline polymers that may be mentioned include thosedescribed in patent application WO 2010/010 301, the content of which isincorporated by reference.

Aqueous Phase

As stated hereinabove, a composition according to the inventioncomprises water.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises atleast 2% by weight of water, preferably at least 5% by weight of waterand preferably at least 10% by weight of water, relative to the totalweight of the composition.

The water may be present in a total content ranging from 2% to 80% byweight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, thewater is present in a total content ranging from 15% to 50% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise, besideswater, at least one water-soluble solvent.

The aqueous phase may constitute the continuous phase of thecomposition.

The term “composition with an aqueous continuous phase” means that thecomposition has a conductivity, measured at 25° C., of greater than orequal to 23 μS/cm (microSiemens/cm), the conductivity being measured,for example, using an MPC227 conductimeter from Mettler Toledo and anInlab730 conductivity measuring cell. The measuring cell is immersed inthe composition so as to remove the air bubbles that might be formedbetween the two electrodes of the cell. The conductivity reading istaken once the conductimeter value has stabilized. A mean is determinedon at least three successive measurements.

In the present invention, the term “water-soluble solvent” denotes acompound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible(miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. andatmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositionsaccording to the invention may also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions inaccordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lowermonoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol andisopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such asethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropyleneglycol, C₃-C₄ ketones and C₂-C₄ aldehydes.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) maybe present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 95% byweight and preferably ranging from 5% to 80% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

In a particularly preferred manner, the aqueous phase (water andoptionally the water-miscible solvent) is present in the composition ina content ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 15% to 50%by weight and preferably from 20% to 40% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.

The aqueous phase according to the invention may also comprise at leastone hydrophilic film-forming polymer and/or at least one hydrophilicthickener and/or at least one surfactant. However, the content ofaqueous phase indicated previously does not include the contents of eachof the abovementioned compounds.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the compositionaccording to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion.

Stabilizer

The composition according to the invention comprises at least onestabilizer chosen from surfactants and/or hydrophilic gelling agents,preferably chosen from associative polymers.

Preferably, the composition is such that the surfactant, if present, isin a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition is such that the hydrophilic gelling agent(preferably an associative polymer), if present, is in a content rangingfrom 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Surfactants

The composition according to the invention may contain an emulsifyingsystem comprising one or more surfactants that are especially present ina content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, or even 0.5% to 15% byweight and preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

Advantageously, when the composition comprises a surfactant, thissurfactant is present in a content such that the total content ofnonvolatile oils/content of surfactant(s) weight ratio is between 1 and40 and preferably between 5 and 35.

Preferably, they are present in a total content of nonvolatileoils/content of surfactant(s) weight ratio of between 8 and 25.

An emulsifying surfactant appropriately chosen to obtain an oil-in-wateremulsion is preferably used.

In particular, an emulsifying surfactant having at 25° C. an HLB balance(hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) within the Griffin sense of greaterthan or equal to 8 may be used.

An emulsifying surfactant having at 25° C. an HLB balance(hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) within the Griffin sense of less than 8may also be used.

The Griffin HLB value is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5),pages 249-256.

These surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic andamphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made toKirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Volume 22, pp.333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifyingproperties and functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 ofthis reference, for the anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

According to a first embodiment, the composition comprises at least onehydrocarbon-based surfactant.

Examples of hydrocarbon-based surfactants that are suitable for use inthe invention are described below.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, as seen previously,the composition of the invention comprises at least one surfactantchosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants, which is introduced, atleast partly, via the aqueous dispersion of alkylcellulose used duringthe preparation of a composition of the invention.

Nonionic Surfactants

The nonionic surfactants may be chosen especially from alkyl andpolyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylenated alcohols, alkyland polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionallypolyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionallypolyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl andpolyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl andpolyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters ofsucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters ofglycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethersof glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

1) Alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) that arepreferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) unitsranging from 2 to 200. Examples that may be mentioned include stearate40 EO, stearate 50 EO, stearate 100 EO, laurate 20 EO, laurate 40 EO anddistearate 150 EO.

2) Alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) that arepreferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) unitsranging from 2 to 200. Examples that may be mentioned include cetylether 23 EO, oleyl ether 50 EO, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth 40, steareth100 and beheneth 100.

3) As oxyalkylenated alcohols, which are in particular oxyethylenatedand/or oxypropylenated, use is preferably made of those that cancomprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, inparticular containing from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particularethoxylated fatty alcohols, especially of C₈-C₂₄ and preferably C₁₂-C₁₈,such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA nameSteareth-20), for instance Brij 78 sold by the company Uniqema, cetearylalcohol ethoxylated with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Ceteareth-30),and the mixture of C₁₂-C₁₅ fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units(CTFA name C₁₂-C₁₅ Pareth-7), for instance the product sold under thename Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals; or in particular oxyalkylenated(oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) alcohols containing from 1 to 15oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular ethoxylated C₈-C₂₄and preferably C₁₂-C₁₈ fatty alcohols, such as stearyl alcoholethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Steareth-2), forinstance Brij 72 sold by the company Uniqema;

4) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitanthat are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide(EO) units ranging from 0 to 100. Examples that may be mentioned includesorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, in particular polysorbate 20 (orpolyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such as the product Tween 20sold by the company Uniqema, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO, sorbitan stearate20 EO, sorbitan oleate 20 EO, or the Cremophor products (RH 40, RH 60,etc.) from BASF.

5) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitanthat are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide(EO) units ranging from 0 to 100.

6) Alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides that are preferablyused include those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18 or even from 8 to 16 carbonatoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to5 and especially 1, 2 or 3 glucoside units. The alkylpolyglucosides maybe chosen, for example, from decylglucoside (alkyl-C₉/C11-polyglucoside(1.4)), for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by thecompany Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000UP® by the company Henkel and the product sold under the name Oramix NS10® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance theproduct sold under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis orOramix CG 110® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside, for instance theproduct sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by the company Henkel orPlantaren 1200 N® by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for instance theproduct sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by the company Henkel;caprylylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the namePlantacare 810 UP® by the company Cognis; and mixtures thereof.

More generally, the surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type are definedmore specifically hereinbelow.

7) Examples of alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose that may bementioned include Crodesta F150, sucrose monolaurate sold under the nameCrodesta SL 40, and the products sold by Ryoto Sugar Ester, for instancesucrose palmitate sold under the reference Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670,Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA1695 or Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570.

8) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerolthat are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide(EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units rangingfrom 1 to 30. Examples that may be mentioned include hexaglycerylmonolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate.

9) Optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerolthat are preferably used include those with a number of ethylene oxide(EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units rangingfrom 1 to 30. Examples that may be mentioned include Nikkol batylalcohol 100 and Nikkol chimyl alcohol 100.

Anionic Surfactants

The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates,carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates,taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C₁₀-C₃₀ and especially C₁₂-C₂₀fatty acids, in particular metal stearates, and mixtures thereof.

1) Examples of alkyl ether sulfates that may be mentioned include sodiumlauryl ether sulfate (70/30 C12-14) (2.2 EO) sold under the names SiponAOS225 or Texapon N702 by the company Henkel, ammonium lauryl ethersulfate (70/30 C12-14) (3 EO) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370 by thecompany Henkel, ammonium (C₁₂-C₁₄)alkyl ether (9 EO) sulfate sold underthe name Rhodapex AB/20 by the company Rhodia Chimie, and the mixture ofsodium magnesium lauryl oleyl ether sulfate sold under the name EmpicolBSD 52 by the company Albright & Wilson.

2) Examples of carboxylates that may be mentioned include salts (forexample alkali metal salts) of N-acylamino acids, glycol carboxylates,amido ether carboxylates (AEC) and polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acidsalts.

The surfactant of glycol carboxylate type may be chosen from alkylglycol carboxylics or 2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetate), salts thereof andmixtures thereof. These alkyl glycol carboxylics comprise a linear orbranched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic and/or aromatic alkyl chaincontaining from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. These carboxylics may beneutralized with mineral bases such as potassium hydroxide or sodiumhydroxide.

Examples of surfactants of glycol carboxylic type that may be mentionedinclude sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate or sodium2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxyacetate) such as the product sold under the nameBeaulight Shaa® by the company Sanyo, Beaulight LCA-25N® or thecorresponding acid form Beaulight Shaa (Acid form)®.

An example of an amido ether carboxylate (AEC) that may be mentionedincludes sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 OE) sold under thename Akypo Foam 30® by the company Kao Chemicals.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts that may bementioned include oxyethylenated (6 OE) sodium lauryl ether carboxylate(65/25/10 C12-14-16) sold under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by thecompany Kao Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated fattyacids of olive oil origin sold under the name Olivem 400® by the companyBiologia e Tecnologia, and oxyethylenated (6 OE) sodium tridecyl ethercarboxylate sold under the name Nikkol ECTD-6 NEX® by the companyNikkol.

3) Amino acid derivatives that may especially be mentioned includealkali metal salts of amino acids, such as:

-   -   sarcosinates, for instance the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold        under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by the company Ciba or sold under        the name Oramix L30® by the company SEPPIC, sodium myristoyl        sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by the        company Nikkol, and sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the        name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by the company Nikkol;    -   alaninates, for instance sodium N-lauroyl-N-methyl        amidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate        LN30® by the company Nikkol, or sold under the name Alanone ALE®        by the company Kawaken, and triethanolamine N-lauroyl N-methyl        alanine sold under the name Alanone Alta® by the company        Kawaken;    -   glutamates, for instance triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate        sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12® by the company        Ajinomoto, or triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under the        name Acylglutamate LT-12® by the company Ajinomoto.

The glutamic acid salts and/or derivatives are described morespecifically hereinbelow.

-   -   aspartates, for instance the mixture of triethanolamine N        lauroyl aspartate and of triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate,        sold under the name Asparack® by the company Mitsubishi;    -   glycine derivatives (glycinates), for instance the sodium N        cocoyl glycinate sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and        Amilite GCK 12 by the company Ajinomoto;    -   citrates, such as the oxyethylenated (9 mol) citric monoester of        cocoyl alcohols sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by the        company Goldschmidt;    -   galacturonates, such as the sodium dodecyl-D-galactoside uronate        sold by the company Soliance.

4) Examples of sulfonates that may be mentioned include -olefinsulfonates, for instance the sodium -olefin sulfonate (C₁₄₋₁₆) soldunder the name Bio-Terge AS 40® by the company Stepan, sold under thenames Witconate AOS Protégé® and Sulframine AOS PH 12® by the companyWitco or sold under the name Bio-Terge AS 40 CG® by the company Stepan,the sodium secondary olefin sulfonate sold under the name Hostapur SAS30® by the company Clariant.

5) Isethionates that may be mentioned include acylisethionates, forinstance sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under thename Jordapon CI P® by the company Jordan.

6) Taurates that may be mentioned include the sodium salt of palm kerneloil methyltaurate sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate® by the companyClariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, for instance the sodium N-cocoylN-methyltaurate sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by the companyClariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by the company Nikkol,and the sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate sold under the name Nikkol PMT®by the company Nikkol.

7) Examples of sulfosuccinates that may be mentioned include theoxyethylenated (3 OE) lauryl monosulfosuccinate (70/30 C₁₂/C₁₄) soldunder the names Setacin 103 Special® and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4® by thecompany Witco, the disodium salt of a C₁₂-C₁₄ alkyl hemisulfosuccinate,sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste® by the company ZschimmerSchwarz, the oxyethylenated (2 OE) disodium oleamidosulfosuccinate soldunder the name Standapol SH 135® by the company Henkel, theoxyethylenated (5 OE) laurylamide monosulfosuccinate sold under the nameLebon A-5000® by the company Sanyo, the oxyethylenated (10 OE) disodiumsalt of lauryl citrate monosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewopol SBCS 50® by the company Witco, and the ricinoleic monoethanolamidemonosulfosuccinate sold under the name Rewoderm S 1333® by the companyWitco. Polydimethylsiloxane sulfosuccinates may also be used, such asdisodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate sold under the nameMackanate-DC30 by the company MacIntyre.

8) Examples of alkyl sulfoacetates that may be mentioned include themixture of sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and disodium lauryl ethersulfosuccinate, sold under the name Stepan Mild LSB by the companyStepan.

9) Examples of phosphates and alkyl phosphates that may be mentionedinclude monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as the laurylmonophosphate sold under the name MAP 20® by the company Kao Chemicals,the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid, mixture of monoester anddiester (predominantly diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-31® by thecompany Cognis, the mixture of octylphosphoric acid monoester anddiester sold under the name Crafol AP-20® by the company Cognis, themixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) phosphoric acid diester andmonoester of 2-butyloctanol, sold under the name Isofol 12 7EO-Phosphate Ester® by the company Condea, the potassium ortriethanolamine salt of mono(C₁₂-C₁₃)alkyl phosphate sold under thereferences Arlatone MAP 230K-40 and Arlatone MAP 230T-60® by the companyUniqema, the potassium lauryl phosphate sold under the name DermalcareMAP XC-99/09® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and the potassium cetylphosphate sold under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by the company Uniqema.

10) The polypeptides are obtained, for example, by condensation of afatty chain onto amino acids from cereals and especially from wheat andoat. Examples of polypeptides that may be mentioned include thepotassium salt of hydrolyzed lauroyl wheat protein, sold under the nameAminofoam W OR by the company Croda, the triethanolamine salt ofhydrolyzed cocoyl soybean protein, sold under the name May-Tein SY bythe company Maybrook, the sodium salt of lauroyl oat amino acids, soldunder the name Proteol Oat by the company SEPPIC, collagen hydrolyzategrafted onto coconut fatty acid, sold under the name Geliderm 3000 bythe company Deutsche Gelatine, and soybean proteins acylated withhydrogenated coconut acids, sold under the name Proteol VS 22 by thecompany SEPPIC.

11) as metal salts of C₁₀-C₃₀ and especially C₁₂-C₂₀ fatty acids,mention may be made in particular of metal stearates, such as sodiumstearate and potassium stearate, and also polyhydroxystearates.

Cationic Surfactants

The cationic surfactants may be chosen from:

-   -   alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylethylimidonium        ethosulfate,    -   ammonium salts such as (C₁₂₋₃₀ alkyl)tri(C₁₋₄ alkyl)ammonium        halides, for instance N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride        (or behentrimonium chloride).

The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or moreamphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such asstearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, for instancedimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold under the namePecosil PS100® by the company Phoenix Chemical.

According to a second embodiment, the composition comprises at least onesilicone surfactant. Examples that may be mentioned include:

a) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C., used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made especially of:

-   -   dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name        Q2-5220® by the company Dow Corning;    -   dimethicone copolyol benzoate, such as the product sold under        the names Finsolv SLB 101® and 201® by the company Finetex;

b) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25° C., used aloneor as a mixture; mention may be made especially of:

-   -   the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol sold under        the name Q2-3225C® by the company Dow Corning.

Hydrophilic Gelling Polymers

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term “polymerfor gelling the aqueous phase” means a polymer that is capable ofgelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to theinvention.

The gelling polymer that may be used according to the invention mayespecially be characterized by its capacity to form in water, beyond acertain concentration C*, a gel characterized by oscillatory rheology(μ=1 Hz) by a flow threshold τ_(c) at least equal to 10 Pa. Thisconcentration C* may vary widely according to the nature of the gellingpolymer under consideration.

By way of illustration, this concentration is between 1% and 2% byweight for an acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonatecopolymer as an inverse emulsion at 40% in polysorbate 80/I-C16, forinstance the product sold under the name Simulgel 600 by the companySEPPIC, and is about 0.5% by weight for an AMPS/ethoxylated (25 EO)cetearyl methacrylate copolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropanetriacrylate (TMPTA) of the type such as Aristoflex HMS.

The gelling polymer may be present in the composition in an amount thatis sufficient to adjust the stiffness modulus G* (1 Hz, 25° C.) of thecomposition to a value greater than or equal to 10 000 Pa and especiallyranging from 10 000 Pa to 100 000 Pa. The method for measuring thestiffness modulus G* (1 Hz, 25° C.) of the composition is described ingreater detail hereinbelow.

The gelling polymer is a hydrophilic polymer and is thus present in theaqueous phase of the composition.

More particularly, this gelling polymer may be chosen from:

-   -   acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or salts        and esters thereof and in particular the products sold under the        names Versicol F or Versicol K by the company Allied Colloid,        Ultrahold 8 by the company Ciba-Geigy, and polyacrylic acids of        Synthalen K type, and salts, especially sodium salts, of        polyacrylic acids (corresponding to the INCI name sodium        acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium        polyacrylate (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate        copolymer (and) caprylic/capric triglycerides) sold under the        name Luvigel EM by the company,    -   copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of        the sodium salt thereof under the names Reten by the company        Hercules, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name Darvan        No. 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of        polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F by the        company Henkel,    -   polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified        or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers; the copolymers most        particularly preferred according to the present invention are        acrylate/C₁₀-C₃₀-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name:        Acrylates/C₁₀₋₃₀ Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the        products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names        Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol EDT 2020,        and even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2;    -   AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid partially        neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked) sold by        the company Clariant,    -   AMPS/acrylamide copolymers of Sepigel or Simulgel type sold by        the company SEPPIC, and    -   polyoxyethylenated AMPS/alkyl methacrylate copolymers        (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) of the type such as Aristoflex        HMS sold by the company Clariant,    -   and mixtures thereof.

Other examples of hydrophilic gelling polymers that may be mentionedinclude:

-   -   anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan        polymers;    -   cellulose polymers, other than alkylcellulose, chosen from        hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose,        hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and        carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose        derivatives;    -   vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers        of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of        vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of        vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of        vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;    -   optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as:        galactomannans and derivatives thereof, such as konjac gum,        gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gum        tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl        guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate        groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium        guar chloride, and xanthan derivatives;        -   alginates and carrageenans;        -   glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;        -   deoxyribonucleic acid;        -   mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin            sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer is chosenfrom optionally modified polymers of natural origin, in particular guargum.

According to one preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer is chosenfrom acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or salts andesters thereof, polyacrylic acids and polyacrylic acid salts, ormixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the gelling polymer is a sodiumsalt of polyacrylic acid, especially a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the gelling agent ischosen from associative polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “associativepolymer” means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure atleast one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. Theassociative polymers in accordance with the present invention may beanionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.

Associative Anionic Polymers

Among the associative anionic polymers that may be mentioned are thosecomprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chainallyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit isformed by an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, advantageously by avinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by an acrylic acid or amethacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose fatty-chain allyl etherunit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

CH₂═C(R′)CH₂OB_(n)R  (I)

in which R′ denotes H or CH₃, B denotes an ethylenoxy radical, n is zeroor denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes ahydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryland cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,preferably 10 to 24 and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbonatoms.

Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared,according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479.

Among the associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned aremaleic anhydride/C₃₀-C₃₈ α-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as theproduct (maleic anhydride/C₃₀-C₃₈ α-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer)sold under the name Performa V 1608 by the company NewphaseTechnologies.

Among the associative anionic polymers, it is possible, according to onepreferred embodiment, to use copolymers comprising among their monomersan α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of anα,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of anoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of anα,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C₁-C₄alcohol.

Examples of compounds of this type that may be mentioned include Aculyn22® sold by the company Röhm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethylacrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate (comprising 20 OE units)terpolymer, or Aculyn 28 (methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyethylenatedbehenyl methacrylate (25 OE) terpolymer).

Examples of associative anionic polymers that may also be mentionedinclude anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit ofunsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobicunit exclusively of the type such as a (C₁₀-C₃₀) alkyl ester of anunsaturated carboxylic acid. Examples that may be mentioned include theanionic polymers described and prepared according to patents U.S. Pat.Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

Cationic Associative Polymers

Cationic associative polymers that may be mentioned include quaternizedcellulose derivatives and polyacrylates bearing amine side groups.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:

-   -   quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least        one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups        comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,    -   quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups        comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or        alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures        thereof.

The polyacrylates bearing quaternized or non-quaternized amine sidegroups contain, for example, hydrophobic groups of the type such assteareth-20 (polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol).

The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses orhydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthrylgroups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C₈-C₃₀fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM200, Quatrisoft LM-X529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X529-18B (C₁₂ alkyl) andQuatrisoft LM-X529-8 (C₁₈ alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and theproducts Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C₁₂ alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C₁₈alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

Examples of polyacrylates bearing amino side chains that may bementioned are the polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 from the companyNational Starch.

Nonionic Associative Polymers

The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:

-   -   celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty        chain, for instance hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups        comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups,        especially of C₈-C₂₂, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as        Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS(C₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company        Aqualon,    -   celluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether        groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM1500 (nonylphenyl        polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by the company Amerchol,    -   guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups        comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain,    -   copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic        monomers,    -   copolymers of C₁-C₆ alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of        amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain,    -   copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of        hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for        instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl        methacrylate copolymer,    -   associative polyurethanes.

Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising inthe chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature(referred to as polyurethane polyethers), and hydrophobic blocks thatmay be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromaticsequences.

In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-basedlipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by ahydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendentchains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, itis possible for one or more pendent chains to be included. In addition,the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at bothends of a hydrophilic block.

Associative polyurethanes may be block polymers, in triblock ormultiblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may thus be at each end of thechain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic centralblock) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example:multiblock copolymer). The polymers may also be graft polymers or starpolymers. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblockcopolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chaincomprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. In general, associativepolyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks,whence arises the name.

According to one preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer ofpolyurethane type is used as gelling agent.

By way of example of polyurethane polyethers that may not be used in theinvention, mention may be made of the polymer C₁₆-OE₁₂₀-C₁₆ from thecompany Servo Delden (under the name SER AD FX1100, which is a moleculecontaining a urethane function and having a weight-average molecularweight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit.

Rheolate 205 bearing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, orRheolate 208 or 204, or alternatively Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis, mayalso be used as associative polyurethane polymer. These associativepolyurethanes are sold in pure form. The product DW 1206B from Róhm &Haas containing a C₂₀ alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solidscontent of 20% in water, may also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers,especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of suchpolymers that may be mentioned include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035 andSER AD FX1070 from the company Servo Delden, and Rheolate 255, Rheolate278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox. It is also possible touse the products Aculyn 46, DW 1206F and DW 1206J, and also Acrysol RM184 or Acrysol 44 from the company Röhm & Haas, or alternativelyBorchigel LW 44 from the company Borchers, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent ischosen from:

-   -   optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar, in particular        hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups        (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) or hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar        chloride,    -   vinyl polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol,    -   anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic acid,        such as the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic        acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22        by Röhm & Haas,    -   nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type,        such as Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer sold under the name        Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis.

According to another preferred variant, the hydrophilic gelling agent ischosen from:

-   -   optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar, in particular        hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups        (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) or hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar        chloride,    -   anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic acid,        such as the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic        acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22        by Röhm & Haas,    -   nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type,        such as Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer sold under the name        Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis.

Amphoteric Associative Polymers

Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention, mention maybe made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or unbranchedamphoteric polymers, which may be obtained by copolymerization

1) of at least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb):

in which R₄ and R₅, which may be identical or different, represent ahydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

R₆, R₇ and R₈, which may be identical or different, represent a linearor branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms,

Z represents a group NH or an oxygen atom,

n is an integer from 2 to 5,

A⁻ denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as amethosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

in which R₉ and R₁₀, which may be identical or different, represent ahydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

Z₁ represents a group OH or a group NHC(CH₃)₂CH₂SO₃H;

3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI):

in which R₉ and R₁₀, which may be identical or different, represent ahydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atomand R₁ denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to30 carbon atoms;

4) optionally at least one crosslinking or branching agent; at least oneof the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) comprising at least onefatty chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and said compounds ofthe monomers of formulae (IVa), (IVb), (V) and (VI) possibly beingquaternized, for example with a C₁-C₄ alkyl halide or a C₁-C₄ dialkylsulfate.

The monomers of formulae (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention arepreferably chosen from the group formed by:

-   -   dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate,    -   diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl acrylate,    -   dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl acrylate,    -   dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide or        dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized, for        example with a C₁-C₄ alkyl halide or a C₁-C₄ dialkyl sulfate.

More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen fromacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride andmethacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferablychosen from the group formed by acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonicacid, 2-methylcrotonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acidand 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. More particularly,the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.

The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferablychosen from the group formed by C₁₂-C₂₂ and more particularly C₁₆-C₁₈alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen fromN,N′-methylenebisacrylamide, triallylmethylammonium chloride, allylmethacrylate, n-methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylates,ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate,1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose.

The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomerssuch as nonionic monomers and in particular C₁-C₄ alkyl acrylates ormethacrylates.

The ratio of the number of cationic charges/anionic charges in theseamphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1.

The weight-average molecular weights of the associative amphotericpolymers represents a weight-average molecular mass of greater than 500,preferably between 10 000 and 10 000 000 and even more preferentiallybetween 100 000 and 8 000 000.

Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention containfrom 1 mol % to 99 mol %, more preferentially from 20 mol % to 95 mol %and even more preferentially from 25 mol % to 75 mol % of compound(s) offormula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1 mol % to 80mol %, more preferentially from 5 mol % to 80 mol % and even morepreferentially from 25 mol % to 75 mol % of compound(s) of formula (V).The content of compound(s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 mol% and 70 mol %, more preferentially between 1 mol % and 50 mol % andeven more preferentially between 1 mol % and 10 mol %. The crosslinkingor branching agent, when it is present, is preferably between 0.0001 mol% and 1 mol % and even more preferentially between 0.0001 mol % and 0.1mol %.

Preferably, the mole ratio between the compound(s) of formula (IVa) or(IVb) and the compound(s) of formula (V) ranges from 20/80 to 95/5 andmore preferentially from 25/75 to 75/25.

The associative amphoteric polymers according to the invention aredescribed, for example, in patent application WO 98/44012.

The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to theinvention are chosen from acrylic acid/acrylamidopropyltrimethylammoniumchloride/stearyl methacrylate copolymers.

The gelling polymer(s) for the aqueous phase, and in particular theassociative polymers, may be present in the composition according to theinvention in a total active material content ranging from 0.1% to 10%and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition.

It is understood that this amount is moreover liable to vary dependingon whether said polymer is or is not combined with an ionic and/ornonionic surfactant and/or a film-forming agent (other thanalkylcellulose and in particular ethylcellulose), which are themselvesalso capable of acting on the consistency of said composition.

Silicone Gum

According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the inventionmay also comprise at least one silicone gum, preferably with a viscosityof between 800 000 and 10 000 000 cSt at 25° C.

Preferably, the silicone gum is chosen from silicone gums with aviscosity at 25° C. of between 1 000 000 and 5 000 000 cSt andpreferably between 1 000 000 and 2 500 000 cSt. The viscosity of thissilicone compound may be measured according to standard ASTM D-445.

The molecular mass of the silicone gums is generally greater than 350000 g/mol, between 350 000 and 800 000 g/mol and preferably from 450 000to 700 000 g/mol.

The silicone gum may be chosen especially from the silicones of formula:

in which:

R₁, R₂, R₅ and R₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radicalcontaining 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R₃ and R₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxylradical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxylradical or an amine radical,

n and p being integers chosen such that the viscosity of the compound isgreater than 800 000 cSt.

As silicone gums that may be used according to the invention, mentionmay be made of those for which:

-   -   the substituents R₁ to R₆ represent a methyl group, the group X        represents a methoxy group, and n and p are such that the        molecular weight of the polymer is 600 000 g/mol, such as the        product sold under the name Mirasil C-DPDM by the company        Bluestar;    -   the substituents R₁ to R₆ represent a methyl group, the group X        represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the        molecular weight of the polymer is 600 000 g/mol, such as the        product sold under the name SGM 36 by the company Dow Corning;    -   dimethicones of the (polydimethylsiloxane)(methylvinylsiloxane)        type, such as SE63 sold by GE Bayer Silicones,        poly(dimethylsiloxane)(diphenyl)(methylvinylsiloxane)        copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprisefrom 0.1% to 20% by weight of silicone gum(s) according to the inventionrelative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, it may comprise from 0.2% to 15% by weight of siliconegum(s) according to the invention relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises atleast one silicone gum and at least one alkylcellulose polymer in asilicone gum(s)/alkylcellulose polymer weight ratio of between 0.1 and15 and more particularly from 0.5 to 10. Preferably, the siliconegum(s)/alkylcellulose polymer weight ratio is between 0.5 and 5.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the inventioncomprises:

-   -   between 4% and 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably        ethylcellulose,    -   between 15% and 50% by weight of water,    -   between 45% and 75% by weight of nonvolatile oils, and    -   between 0.5% and 12% of silicone gum.

Organopolysiloxane Elastomer

According to another particular embodiment, a composition according tothe invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer.

These particular elastomers, when present in a composition according tothe invention, make it possible to obtain non-tacky and comfortproperties (suppleness of the deposit) for the deposits formed on thelips or the skin from compositions comprising them.

The term “organopolysiloxane elastomer” means a supple, deformableorganopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and especially theconsistency of a sponge or a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity issuch that this material withstands deformation and has limitedstretchability and contractability. This material is capable ofregaining its original shape after stretching.

It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least onehydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containingethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in thepresence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinkingcondensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxylend groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogenbonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or bycrosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containinghydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or bythermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presenceof an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxanevia high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or anelectron beam.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least twohydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxanecontaining at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded tosilicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, asdescribed, for instance, in patent application EP-A-295 886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained byreaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groupsand of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, inthe presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A) is the base compound for the formation oforganopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed byaddition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence ofthe catalyst (C).

Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at leasttwo hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, especially a linear-chainor branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1 to 50 000centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may bealkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substitutedalkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl;substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalenthydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate estergroup or a mercapto group.

Compound (A) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanescontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containingtrimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxanecyclic copolymers.

Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing atleast two lower alkenyl groups (for example C₂-C₄); the lower alkenylgroup may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These loweralkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxanemolecule, but are preferably located at the ends of theorganopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have abranched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure, but thelinear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosityranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B)has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25° C.

Besides the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groupsbonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such asmethyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups suchas phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl;and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxygroup, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes,methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanescontaining dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containingdimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymerscontaining dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containingtrimethylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymerscontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups,methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes containingdimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, anddimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymerscontaining dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained byreaction of a dimethyl polysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy endgroups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy endgroups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per moleculein compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to siliconatoms per molecule in compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such thatthe molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded tosilicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all theethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the rangefrom 1.5/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and isespecially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes,chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinicacid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as cleanplatinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount ofcompounds (A) and (B).

The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

The term “non-emulsifying” defines organopolysiloxane elastomers notcontaining any hydrophilic chains, and in particular not containing anypolyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene)or any polyglyceryl units.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are conveyed in the form of agel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at leastone hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, theorganopolysiloxane particles are often nonspherical particles.

Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in patents EP 242219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in patent application JP-A-61-194009, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference.

Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used more particularly includethose sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41,KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040 and DC9041 bythe company Dow Corning, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.

Spherical non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used include those soldunder the names DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505 and DC 9506 by thecompany Dow Corning.

The elastomer may also be an emulsifying elastomer.

The term “emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer” means anorganopolysiloxane elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain,such as polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers andpolyglycerolated silicone elastomers.

The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may be chosen frompolyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

The polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomer is a crosslinkedorganopolysiloxane elastomer that may be obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least onehydrogen bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene containing at leasttwo ethylenically unsaturated groups.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction (A1) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least twohydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B1) of polyoxyalkylenecontaining at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially inthe presence (C1) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, inpatents U.S. Pat. No. 5,236,986 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction ofpolyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene)with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxanewith trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A1) may bealkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl,ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetylor stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl,2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such asphenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such asan epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

Compound (A1) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanescontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containingtrimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxanecyclic copolymers,dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymerscontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups.

Compound (C1) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and isespecially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes,chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinicacid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers maybe formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenescontaining at least two vinyl groups, which react with Si—H bonds of apolysiloxane.

Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are especially described in patents U.S.Pat. No. 5,236,986, U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004, U.S. Pat. No. 5,837,793 andU.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487, the content of which is incorporated byreference.

Polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers that may be usedinclude those sold under the names KSG-21, KSG-20, KSG-30, KSG-31,KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330 and KSG-340 by thecompany Shin-Etsu, and DC9010 and DC9011 by the company Dow Corning.

The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may also be chosen frompolyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

The polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer according to theinvention is an organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be obtained bycrosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing atleast one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of polyglycerolated compoundscontaining ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presenceof a platinum catalyst.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least twohydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B2) of glycerolated compoundscontaining at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially inthe presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of apolyglycerolated compound with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and ofmethylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in thepresence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of anorganopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed byaddition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence ofthe catalyst (C2).

Compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at leasttwo hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A2) may have any molecular structure, especially alinear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1 to 50 000centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (B2).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (A2) may bealkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl,ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetylor stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl,2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl,tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; andsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group,a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organicgroup is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.

Compound (A2) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanescontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containingtrimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxanecyclic copolymers anddimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymerscontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups.

Compound (B2) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding toformula (B′) below:

C_(m)H_(2m-1)—O-[Gly]_(n)-C_(m)H_(2m-1)  (B′)

in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer rangingfrom 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from 2 to50, preferably ranging from 2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to 10 andpreferentially ranging from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equal to 3;Gly denotes:

—CH₂—CH(OH)—CH₂—O— or —CH₂—CH(CH₂OH)—O—

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per moleculein compound (B2) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to siliconatoms per molecule in compound (A2) is at least 4.

It is advantageous for compound (A2) to be added in an amount such thatthe molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded tosilicon atoms in compound (A2) and the total amount of all theethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B2) is within the rangefrom 1/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C2) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and isespecially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes,chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinicacid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as cleanplatinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount ofcompounds (A2) and (B2).

The polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer according to theinvention is conveyed in gel form in at least one hydrocarbon-based oiland/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the polyglycerolated elastomeris often in the form of nonspherical particles.

Polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers that may be used includethose sold under the names KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 andKSG-840 by the company Shin-Etsu.

Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomer under considerationaccording to the invention is chosen from spherical non-emulsifyingorganopolysiloxane elastomers, polyglycerolated organopolysiloxaneelastomers and polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

Emulsifying elastomers that may be used more particularly include thosesold under the names KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-210 and KSG-710 by thecompany Shin-Etsu.

Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used more particularly includethose sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41,KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040 and DC9041 bythe company Dow Corning, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.

Preferably, the silicone elastomer is non-emulsifying, for example inthe case of lipstick compositions, and in particular in the case ofanhydrous compositions.

The composition according to the invention may comprise anorganopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, in a contentranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% byweight and even more preferably from 0.5% to 12% by weight.

It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, theweight percentages of a compound are always expressed as weight ofsolids of the compound in question.

Advantageously, the alkylcellulose polymer according to the inventionand the organopolysiloxane elastomer are used in an organopolysiloxaneelastomer(s)/alkylcellulose weight ratio ranging from 0.1 to 15 and moreparticularly from 0.5 to 10. Preferably, the organopolysiloxaneelastomer(s)/alkylcellulose weight ratio is between 0.5 and 5.

As stated above, the elastomer is generally used with a fatty phase.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the inventioncomprises:

-   -   between 4% and 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably        ethylcellulose,    -   between 15% and 50% by weight of water,    -   between 45% and 75% by weight of nonvolatile oils, and    -   between 0.5% and 12% of organopolysiloxane elastomer(s).

Silicone Resin

According to another particular embodiment, a composition according tothe invention comprises at least one silicone resin.

More generally, the term “resin” means a compound whose structure isthree-dimensional. “Silicone resins” are also referred to as “siloxaneresins”. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, apolydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

The nomenclature of silicone resins (also known as siloxane resins) isknown under the name “MDTQ”, the resin being described as a function ofthe various siloxane monomer units it comprises, each of the letters“MDTQ” characterizing a type of unit.

The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formulaR1R2R3SiO_(1/2), the silicon atom being bonded to only one oxygen atomin the polymer comprising this unit.

The letter D means a difunctional unit R1R2SiO_(2/2) in which thesilicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.

The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula R1SiO_(3/2).

Such resins are described, for example, in the Encyclopedia of PolymerScience and Engineering, vol. 15, John Wiley & Sons, New York, (1989),pp. 265-270, and U.S. Pat. No. 2,676,182, U.S. Pat. No. 3,627,851, U.S.Pat. No. 3,772,247, U.S. Pat. No. 5,248,739 or U.S. Pat. No. 5,082,706,U.S. Pat. No. 5,319,040, U.S. Pat. No. 5,302,685 and U.S. Pat. No.4,935,484.

In the units M, D and T defined previously, R, namely R1 and R2,represents a hydrocarbon-based radical (especially alkyl) containingfrom 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or ahydroxyl group.

Finally, the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit SiO_(4/2) in whichthe silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, which are themselvesbonded to the rest of the polymer.

Various silicone resins with different properties may be obtained fromthese different units, the properties of these polymers varying as afunction of the type of monomer (or unit), the nature and number of theradical R, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching andthe size of the pendent chains.

As silicone resins that may be used in the compositions according to theinvention, use may be made, for example, of silicone resins of MQ type,of T type or of MQT type.

According to one preferred embodiment, an MQ resin is used.

MQ Resins:

As examples of silicone resins of MQ type, mention may be made of thealkyl siloxysilicates of formula [(R1)₃SiO_(1/2)]_(x)(SiO_(4/2))_(y) (MQunits) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and suchthat the group R1 represents a radical as defined previously, and ispreferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or ahydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group.

-   -   As examples of solid silicone resins of MQ type of trimethyl        siloxysilicate type, mention may be made of those sold under the        reference SR1000 by the company General Electric, under the        reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker, or under the name        KF-7312J by the company Shin-Etsu or DC 749 or DC 593 by the        company Dow Corning.    -   As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention        may also be made of phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as        phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by the        company General Electric). The preparation of such resins is        described especially in patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,817,302.

T Resins:

Examples of silicone resins of type T that may be mentioned include thepolysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO_(3/2))_(x) (units T) in which x isgreater than 100 and such that the group R is an alkyl group containingfrom 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes also possiblycomprising Si—OH end groups.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane resins that may preferably be used are those inwhich R represents a methyl group, for instance those sold:

-   -   by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK, such as        Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising CH₃SiO_(3/2) repeating units        (units T), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of        (CH₃)₂SiO_(2/2) units (units D) and having an average molecular        weight of about 10 000 g/mol, or    -   by the company Shin-Etsu under the reference KR220L, which are        composed of units T of formula CH₃SiO_(3/2) and have Si—OH        (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR242A, which comprise        98% of units T and 2% of dimethyl units D and have Si—OH end        groups, or alternatively under the reference KR251 comprising        88% of units T and 12% of dimethyl units D and have Si—OH end        groups.

MQT Resins:

Resins comprising MQT units that are especially known are thosementioned in document U.S. Pat. No. 5,110,890.

A preferred form of resins of MQT type are MQT-propyl (also known asMQTpr) resins. Such resins that may be used in the compositionsaccording to the invention are especially the resins described andprepared in patent application WO 2005/075 542, the content of which isincorporated herein by reference.

The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the following units:

(i) (R1₃SiO_(1/2))_(a)

(ii) (R2₂SiO_(2/2))_(b)

(iii) (R3SiO_(3/2))_(c) and

(iv) (SiO_(4/2))_(d)

with

R1, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon-based radical,especially alkyl, containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group,a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radicalcontaining from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group,

a being between 0.05 and 0.5,

b being between 0 and 0.3,

c being greater than 0,

d being between 0.05 and 0.6,

a+b+c+d=1, and a, b, c and d being mole fractions,

on condition that more than 40 mol % of the groups R3 of the siloxaneresin are propyl groups.

Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the following units:

(i) (R1₃SiO_(1/2))_(a)

(iii) (R3SiO_(3/2))_(c) and

(iv) (SiO_(4/2))_(d)

with

R1 and R3 independently representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to8 carbon atoms, R1 preferably being a methyl group and R3 preferablybeing a propyl group,

a being between 0.05 and 0.5 and preferably between 0.15 and 0.4,

c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4,

d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 oralternatively between 0.2 and 0.55,

a+b+c+d=1, and a, b, c and d being mole fractions,

on condition that more than 40 mol % of the groups R3 of the siloxaneresin are propyl groups.

The siloxane resins that may be used according to the invention may beobtained via a process comprising the reaction of:

A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol % of units (R1₃SiO_(1/2))_(a)and (SiO_(4/2))_(d),

R1 representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, anaryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,

a and d being greater than zero,

the ratio a/d being between 0.5 and 1.5;

and

B) a T-propyl resin comprising at least 80 mol % of units(R3SiO_(3/2))_(c),

R3 representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, anaryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,

c being greater than 0,

on condition that at least 40 mol % of the groups R3 are propyl groups,

in which the mass ratio A/B is between 95/5 and 15/85 and preferably themass ratio A/B is 30/70.

Advantageously, the mass ratio A/B is between 95/5 and 15/85.Preferably, the ratio A/B is less than or equal to 70/30. Thesepreferred ratios have proven to allow comfortable deposits due to theabsence of percolation of the rigid particles of MQ resin in thedeposit.

Thus, preferably, the silicone resin is chosen from the groupcomprising:

a) a resin of MQ type, chosen especially from (i) alkyl siloxysilicates,which may be trimethyl siloxysilicates, of formula[(R1)₃SiO_(1/2)]_(x)(SiO_(4/2))_(y), in which x and y are integersranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents ahydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenylgroup, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, and preferably is analkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably a methylgroup, and (ii) phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resins, such asphenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate, and/or

b) a resin of T type, chosen especially from the polysilsesquioxanes offormula (RSiO_(3/2))_(x), in which x is greater than 100 and the group Ris an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, for example amethyl group, said polysilsesquioxanes also possibly comprising Si—OHend groups, and/or

c) a resin of MQT type, especially of MQT-propyl type, which maycomprise units (i) (R1₃SiO_(1/2))_(a), (ii) (R2₂SiO_(2/2))_(b), (iii)(R3SiO_(3/2))_(c) and (iv) (SiO_(4/2))_(d),

with R1, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon-basedradical, especially alkyl, containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, aphenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group and preferably analkyl radical containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group,

a being between 0.05 and 0.5,

b being between 0 and 0.3,

c being greater than 0,

d being between 0.05 and 0.6,

a+b+c+d=1, and a, b, c and d being mole fractions,

on condition that more than 40 mol % of the groups R3 of the siloxaneresin are propyl groups.

Preferably, the silicone resin is present in the first compositionaccording to the invention in a total content of resin solids rangingfrom 0.5% to 20% by weight and preferably ranging from 1% to 10% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises atleast one silicone resin and at least one alkylcellulose polymer in asilicone resin/alkylcellulose polymer weight ratio of between 0.05 and15 and more particularly from 0.1 to 10. Preferably, the siliconeresin/alkylcellulose polymer weight ratio is between 0.3 and 5.

According to one particular embodiment, a composition of the inventioncomprises:

-   -   between 4% and 30% by weight of alkylcellulose, preferably        ethylcellulose,    -   between 15% and 50% by weight of water,    -   between 45% and 75% by weight of nonvolatile oils, and    -   between 1% and 10% of silicone resin.

Active Agents

The composition may also comprise at least one active agent chosen frommoisturizers, cicatrizing agents and/or antiaging agents, for the skinand/or the lips, and in particular the lips.

According to this embodiment, the invention also relates to a processfor caring for the skin and/or the lips, and in particular the lips,comprising the application of a composition according to the inventionto the skin and/or the lips.

According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to a lip balm(liquid or solid) or lipstick formed from a composition according to theinvention also comprising at least one active agent chosen frommoisturizers, cicatrizing agents and/or antiaging agents.

Since the deposit made with a composition according to the invention hasa good level of wear property, this ensures the remanence of the activeagent on the skin and/or the lips and thus improves the care efficacy(moisturizing, cicatrizing and/or antiaging effect) on the skin and/orthe lips.

Moisturizers

According to a first embodiment, the composition also comprises at leastone moisturizer (also known as a humectant).

Moisturizers or humectants that may especially be mentioned includesorbitol, polyhydric alcohols, preferably of C₂-C₈ and more preferablyC₃-C₆, preferably such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butyleneglycol, dipropylene glycol and diglycerol, and mixtures thereof,glycerol and derivatives thereof, urea and derivatives thereof,especially Hydrovance® (2-hydroxyethylurea) sold by National Starch,lactic acids, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, sodium pidolate, xylitol,serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and derivatives thereof, chitosan andderivatives thereof, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindrasold under the name Moist 24® by the company Sederma, acrylic acidhomopolymers, for instance Lipidure-HM® from NOF Corporation,beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan fromMibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower oil, apricot oil,corn oil and rice bran oil sold by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids®; aC-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO02/051 828 and in particular C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane inthe form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in awater/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the productmanufactured by Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl SBB®; an oil of muskrose sold by Nestlé; an extract of the microalga Prophyridium cruentumenriched with zinc, sold by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®;spheres of collagen and of chondroitin sulfate of marine origin(Atelocollagen) sold by the company Engelhard Lyon under the name MarineFilling Spheres; hyaluronic acid spheres such as those sold by thecompany Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.

The moisturizer that will preferably be used is chosen from glycerol,urea and derivatives thereof, especially Hydrovance® sold by NationalStarch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, acrylic acid homopolymers, forinstance Lipidure-HM® from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and inparticular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan fromMibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower oil, apricot oil,corn oil and rice bran oil sold by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids®; aC-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO02/051 828 and in particular C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane inthe form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in awater/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the productmanufactured by Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl SBB®; an oil of muskrose sold by Nestlé; an extract of the microalga Prophyridium cruentumenriched with zinc, sold by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®;spheres of collagen and of chondroitin sulfate of marine origin(Atelocollagen) sold by the company Engelhard Lyon under the name MarineFilling Spheres; hyaluronic acid spheres such as those sold by thecompany Engelhard Lyon; and arginine.

Cicatrizing Agents

The active agent may also be chosen from cicatrizing agents.

Examples of cicatrizing agents that may especially be mentioned include:

allantoin, urea, certain amino acids, for instance hydroxyproline,arginine, and serine, and also extracts of white lily (for instancePhytélène Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), a yeast extract, for instance thecicatrizing agent LS LO/7225B from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques(Cognis), tamanu oil, extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, for instanceBiodynes® TRF® from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan andderivatives, for instance chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemiaextract, for instance GP4G® from Vincience, sodium acexamate, lavandinextracts, propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and salts thereof, rose hipoil, marigold extracts, for instance Souci Ami® Liposolible from AlbanMuller, horsetail extracts, lemon peel extracts, for instance Herbasol®citron from Cosmetochem, helichrysum extracts, common yarrow extracts,folic acid, beta-glucan derivatives, shea butter and purified fractionsthereof, modified exopolysaccharides and alkylsulfonepolyaminosaccharides.

Antiaging Agents:

The active agent may also be chosen from antiaging agents, i.e. agentsespecially having a restructuring effect on the skin barrier,anti-glycation agents, active agents that stimulate the energymetabolism of cells, and mixtures thereof.

The agent with a restructuring effect on the skin barrier may be chosenfrom an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Venuceane® from Sederma,an extract of the rhizome of wild yam (Dioscorea villosa) such asActigen Y® from Active Organics, plankton extracts, for instance OmegaPlankton® from Secma, yeast extracts, for instance Relipidium® fromColetica, a chestnut extract such as Recoverine® from Silab, a cedar budextract such as Gatuline Zen® from Gattefossé, sphingosines, forinstance salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name Phytosphingosine®SLC by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, polyxylityl glycosideand xylitan, for instance Aquaxyl® from SEPPIC, extracts of Solanaceaplants, for instance Lipidessence® from Coletica, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made especially of ceramides, sphingoid-basedcompounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol andderivatives thereof, phytosterols, essential fatty acids,diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and chromone derivatives, and mixturesthereof.

As preferred agents having a restructuring effect on the skin barrier,mention will be made of an extract of Thermus thermophilus, an extractof wild yam rhizome (Dioscorea villosa), a yeast extract, a chestnutextract, a cedar bud extract, and mixtures thereof.

The term “anti-glycation agent” means a compound that prevents and/orreduces the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteinssuch as collagen.

Examples of anti-glycation agents include extracts of plants of theEricacea family, such as an extract of blueberry (Vacciniumangustifolium), for example the product sold under the name BlueberryHerbasol Extract PG by the company Cosmetochem, ergothioneine andderivatives thereof, hydroxystilbenes and derivatives thereof, such asresveratrol and 3,3′,5,5′-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycationagents are described in patent applications FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810 548,FR 2 796 278 and FR 2 802 420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes andderivatives thereof, polypeptides of arginine and of lysine such as theproduct sold under the name Amadorine® by the company Solabia, carcininehydrochloride (sold by Exsymol under the name Alistin®), an extract ofHelianthus annuus, for instance Antiglyskin® from Silab, wine extractssuch as the extract of powdered white wine on a maltodextrin supportsold under the name Vin blanc déshydraté 2F by the company Givaudan,thioctic acid (or alpha-lipoic acid), a mixture of extract of bearberryand of marine glycogen, for instance Aglycal LS 8777® from LaboratoiresSérobiologiques, and an extract of black tea, for instance Kombuchka®from Sederma, and mixtures thereof.

The active agent for stimulating the energy metabolism of cells may bechosen, for example, from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiaesuch as Phosphovital® from Sederma, the mixture of sodium, manganese,zinc and magnesium salts of pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, for instancePhysiogenyl® from Solabia, a mixture of zinc, copper and magnesiumgluconate, such as Sepitonic M3® from SEPPIC, and mixtures thereof.

The active agents used in the compositions according to the inventionmay be hydrophilic or lipophilic.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one hydrophilic activeagent, chosen from moisturizers, cicatrizing agents and antiagingagents.

Specifically, since the composition according to the invention compriseswater, this water lends itself particularly to the introduction ofhydrophilic active agents into the composition, in particular withoutany problem of stability of the composition and/or of the active agent.This is particularly interesting, in particular in the context oflipcare. Specifically, the standard lipstick compositions known in theprior art, whether they are solid or liquid, rarely comprise water, and,if they do contain any, they are generally unstable over time (i.e. theyundergo phase separation or exudation).

Preferably, the active agent is chosen from: polyhydric alcohols,preferably of C₂-C₈ and more preferably of C₃-C₆, preferably such asglycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,diglycerol, and a mixture thereof, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, serine,collagen, a C-glycoside derivative and in particularC-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solutioncontaining 30% by weight of active material in a water/propylene glycolmixture (60/40 wt %); spheres of collagen and of chondroitin sulfate ofmarine origin (atelocollagen), hyaluronic acid spheres; ceramides,preferably such as ceramide V.

Preferably, the active material content of the composition ranges from0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, betterstill from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 5% byweight and even better still from 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention may also comprise anyadditional component usually used in cosmetics, such as dyestuffs,fillers or cosmetic active agents.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to selectthe optional additional compounds and/or the amount thereof such thatthe advantageous properties of the composition used according to theinvention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by theenvisioned addition.

Dyestuffs

A composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise atleast one dyestuff, which may be chosen from water-soluble orwater-insoluble, liposoluble or non-liposoluble, organic or mineraldyestuffs, and materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “dyestuff” means acompound that is capable of producing a colored optical effect when itis formulated in sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to theinvention comprises at least one water-soluble dyestuff.

The water-soluble dyestuffs used according to the invention are moreparticularly water-soluble dyes.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “water-soluble dye” meansany natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is solublein an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable ofcoloring. In particular, the term “water-soluble” characterizes thecapacity of a compound to be dissolved in water, measured at 25° C., toa concentration at least equal to 0.1 g/l (production of amacroscopically isotropic, transparent, colored or colorless solution).This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g/l.

As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention,mention may be made especially of synthetic or natural water-solubledyes, for instance FDC Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na;CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDCYellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), FDC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1(CI: 42090).

As nonlimiting illustrations of sources of water-soluble dyestuffs thatmay be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be madeespecially of those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochinealcarmine, of beetroot, of grape, of carrot, of tomato, of annatto, ofpaprika, of henna, of caramel and of curcumin.

Thus, the water-soluble dyestuffs that are suitable for use in theinvention are especially carminic acid, betanin, anthocyans, enocyanins,lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capxanthin, capsorubin,flavoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin,riboflavin, rhodoxanthin, cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixturesthereof.

They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-solublesulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, the disodium saltof tartrazine and the disodium salt of fuchsin.

Some of these water-soluble dyestuffs are especially permitted for fooduse. Representatives of these dyes that may be mentioned moreparticularly include dyes of the carotenoid family, referenced under thefood codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.

According to one preferred variant, the water-soluble dyestuff(s) thatare to be transferred onto the skin and/or the lips intended to be madeup are formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium so as to becompatible with impregnation into the substrate.

The water-soluble dyestuff(s) may be present in a composition accordingto the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight andpreferably from 0.1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight ofsaid composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-solubledyestuff(s) are chosen from the disodium salt of brilliant yellow FCFsold by the company LCW under the name DC Yellow 6, the disodium salt offuchsin acid D sold by the company LCW under the name DC Red 33, and thetrisodium salt of Rouge Allura sold by the company LCW under the name FD& C Red 40.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the compositionaccording to the invention comprises only water-soluble dyes asdyestuffs.

According to another embodiment, a composition according to theinvention may comprise, besides the water-soluble dyestuffs describedpreviously, one or more additional dyestuffs, especially such aspigments or nacres, conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.

The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or colored,inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in theliquid organic phase, and which are intended to color and/or opacify thecomposition and/or the deposit produced with the composition.

The pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments andcomposite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and/or organicmaterials).

The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lakes, nacres,and pigments with an optical effect, for instance reflective pigmentsand goniochromatic pigments.

The mineral pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromiumoxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides,zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue andferric blue, and mixtures thereof.

The organic pigments may be, for example:

-   -   cochineal carmine,    -   organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes,        xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane        dyes and fluorane dyes;    -   organic lakes or insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium,        aluminum, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of acidic dyes        such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene,        quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes. These dyes        generally comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid        group;    -   melanin-based pigments.

Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of D&C Blue No. 4, D&CBrown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&COrange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&CRed No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No.27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&CRed No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&CYellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1,FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5 and FD&C Yellow No.6.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such asmethicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such asstearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminumsalt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates,perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropyleneoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyethergroups, amino acids, N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin,isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl,myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of thesecompounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodiumor potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamicacid or alanine.

The term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds cited above especiallydenotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms andpreferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described especially in patentapplication EP-A-1 086 683.

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term “nacre”should be understood as meaning colored particles of any form, which mayor may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs intheir shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a color effectvia optical interference.

Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments suchas titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuthoxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium micacoated with an organic dye especially of the abovementioned type, andalso nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also bemica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least twosuccessive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze,orange, brown, gold and/or coppery color or tint.

As illustrations of nacres that may be introduced as interferencepigments into the first composition, mention may be made especially ofthe gold-colored nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard underthe name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparklegold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne);the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the nameBronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by thecompany Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orangenacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merckunder the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449)(Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by the company Engelhardunder the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509(Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with ared tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine(17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the rednacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard underthe name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the blacknacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard underthe name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres soldespecially by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433)(Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint sold especially by thecompany Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden-greenpink-orange nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the nameIndian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to theinvention is free of dyestuff. According to this embodiment, thecomposition is advantageously a colorless lipcare balm, which may be inliquid or solid form, preferably in liquid form.

Fillers

A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also compriseat least one filler, of organic or mineral nature.

The term “filler” should be understood as meaning colorless or whitesolid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble form anddispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of mineralor organic nature, can give body or rigidity to the composition and/orsoftness and uniformity to the makeup. They are different thandyestuffs.

The fillers may be mineral or organic and of any form, platelet-shaped,spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (forexample lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). In particular,the filler may be chosen from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, bentone, fumedsilica particles, optionally hydrophilic- or hydrophobic-treated,polyamide (Nylon®) powder (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-P-alanine powderand polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) powder,lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres suchas polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile microspheres, for instanceExpancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres(Polytrap® from the company Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads(for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), precipitated calcium carbonate,magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite,hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), elastomericpolyorganosiloxane particles, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and metalsoaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zincstearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate ormagnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the filler is chosen from silica, kaolin, bentone, starch,lauroyllysine, and fumed silica particles, optionally hydrophilic- orhydrophobic-treated, and mixtures thereof.

A composition used according to the invention may comprise one or morefillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition and in particular from 1% to 10% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at leastone compound chosen from fillers, waxes, pasty fatty substances,semicrystalline polymers and/or lipophilic gelling agents, and mixturesthereof.

Usual Additional Cosmetic Ingredients

A composition used according to the invention may also comprise anycommon cosmetic ingredient, which may be chosen especially fromantioxidants, additional film-forming polymers (lipophilic orhydrophilic) other than alkylcellulose and in particular other thanethylcellulose, fragrances, preserving agents, neutralizers, sunscreens,sweeteners, vitamins, free-radical scavengers and sequestrants, andmixtures thereof.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to selectthe optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such thatthe advantageous properties of the composition according to theinvention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by theenvisioned addition.

A composition according to the invention may more particularly be acomposition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, inparticular the lips.

A composition according to the invention may constitute a liquidlipstick for the lips, a body makeup product, a facial or body careproduct or an antisun product.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention isin liquid form. As illustrations of liquid formulations, mention may bemade especially of lip glosses.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the compositionaccording to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion.

The composition according to the invention may be manufactured via theknown processes generally used in cosmetics or dermatology.

As stated previously, the composition according to the invention ishomogeneous and gives access to a deposit that has good cosmeticproperties, in particular in terms of gloss, comfort (thin, lightdeposit) and absence of tack.

The terms “between” and “ranging from” should be understood as includingthe limits.

The present invention will be understood more clearly by means of theexamples that follow.

These examples are given as illustrations of the invention and cannot beinterpreted as limiting its scope.

EXAMPLES 1 AND 2 Liquid Lip Formulations

Example Example 1 2 according according to the to the inventioninvention (weight (weight Ingredients Compounds/Commercial Refs. %) %)Dye Disodium salt of fuchsin acid D 0.2 — (CI:17200), disodium salt oftartrazine (CI:19140) and trisodium salt of Allura Red (CI:16035)Aqueous Red 7 (and) acrylic styrene — 1.22 dispersion copolymer (and) ofammonium hydroxide/ pigments Glycol Butylene glycol — 1.63 PreservingPhenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 agent Nonvolatile Octyldodecanol 33.35 35.75 oilDispersion Ethylcellulose at 26.2% in water; 33.35* 35.75* of sodiumlauryl sulfate (1.3%) ethylcellulose and cetyl alcohol/Aquacoat in waterECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer Polymer Polyvinyl alcohol (viscosity: 0.5 150/degree of hydrolysis: 88%) Celvol 540 PV Alcohol from CelaneseChemicals Silicone oil Polyphenyltrimethylsiloxy- 23 19 dimethylsiloxane(viscosity: 1000 cSt-MW: 3000 g/mol)/Wacker-Belsil PDM 1000 from WackerSolvent Non-denatured 96-degree 3 3 ethyl alcohol Solvent Water 2.152.15 Surfactant Mixture of sorbitan stearate, 3.95 — sucrosecocoate/Arlatone 2121U from Croda Total 100 100 *Expressed as weight ofcommercial product.

Preparation Protocol

1) The aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose is mixed with thenonvolatile oil with stirring, and the mixture is heated for 1 to 2hours at 55° C.

2) The surfactant is added (for Example 1) and the mixture is stirred at55° C. until homogeneous.

3) The polyvinyl alcohol is added until a homogeneous mixture isobtained, and the resulting mixture is left to cool to room temperature.

4) The nonvolatile silicone oil is then added with continued stirring.

5) The dyes/pigments predissolved in water are then added.

6) Finally, the alcohol and the phenoxyethanol are added with stirring.

Evaluation of the Cosmetic Properties: Gloss, Migration Resistance

The gloss and the migration are evaluated in vivo by means of aChromasphere SEI-M-02232-CHRO-0 as described in patent application FR 2829 344.

The gloss is evaluated just after application of the formula and thenone hour after application.

The formulations are applied to the lips of a panel of six individualswith fleshy and light lips.

Protocol for Evaluating the Tack

The tacky aspect of the deposits produced with the formulas was alsoevaluated according to the following protocol: A sample of each of thecompositions was applied to the lips so as to form a deposit of uniformthickness.

The tacky nature on the finger was evaluated during drying of theformula after 2 minutes at room temperature (25° C.). To do this, afinger was applied, after the specified drying time, onto the appliedformula and the tack was assessed by the person on removal of theirfinger from the applied formula.

The results obtained are collated in Table 1 below:

TABLE 1 Tests Formula 1 Formula 2 Gloss Immediate gloss 244 ± 9  234 ±13 Gloss at 1 hour 248 ± 23 231 ± 19 Migration Very Very sparinglysparingly migrating migrating Tacky Non-tacky Non-tacky

Result

The compositions of Examples 1 and 2 are applied to the lips. They arecomfortable on application (easy to apply) and do not give a tackysensation and migrate very sparingly.

The makeup film obtained is uniform, thin and light, has very good glossand gloss remanence on the lips, and also satisfactory wear property ofthe color.

Wearing the composition of Example 2 also gives the lips a sensation ofmoisturization.

EXAMPLES 3 TO 5 Liquid Lip Formulations

Example 5 (comparative Example 3 Example 4 formula according toAccording to outside the the invention the invention invention)Ingredients Compounds/commercial refs. (weight %) (weight %) (weight %)Dispersion of Ethylcellulose at 26.2% in water; 32.97* 32.97* 32.97*ethylcellulose sodium lauryl sulfate (1.3%) and in water cetyl alcohol(2.5%) Aquacoat ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer Nonvolatile oilOctyldodecanol 32.97 32.97 32.97 Nonvolatile oil Trimethylsiloxyphenyl23 — — dimethicone/Belsil PDM 1000 from WackerPerfluoroperhydrophenanthrene/ — 23 — Fiflow 220 from F2 ChemicalsCapric/caprylic acid triglycerides — — 23 Myritol 318 from CognisPreserving Phenoxyethanol and ethanol 3.5 3.5 3.5 agents Solvent Water2.76 2.76 2.76 Thickener Polyvinyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 SurfactantMixture of sorbitan stearate and 4 4 4 sucrose cocoate (Arlatone 2121Ufrom Croda) Water-soluble Disodium salt of fuchsin acid D 0.3 0.3 0.3dyes (CI:17200), disodium salt of tartrazine (CI:19140) and trisodiumsalt of Allura Red (CI:16035) Total: 100 100 100 *Expressed as weight ofcommercial product.

Preparation Protocol

1) The aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose is mixed with thenonvolatile oil with stirring, and the mixture is heated for 1 to 2hours at 55° C.

2) The surfactant is added and the mixture is stirred at 55° C. untilhomogeneous.

3) The polyvinyl alcohol is added until a homogeneous mixture isobtained, and the resulting mixture is left to cool to room temperature.

4) The nonvolatile silicone oil (Ex. 3) or fluoro oil (Ex. 4) or thetriglycerides mixture (Ex. 5) is then added with continued stirring.

5) The dyes predissolved in water are then added.

6) Finally, the alcohol and the phenoxyethanol are added with stirring.

Result

-   -   The results obtained are collated in Table 2 below:

TABLE 2 Example 3 Example 4 Comparative according to the according tothe Example 5 outside invention invention the invention Appearance Veryfluid Very fluid Very thick non- after homogeneous homogeneoushomogeneous 24 hours cream cream cream Aspect Clean CleanNon-homogeneous under a homogeneous homogeneous microscope dispersiondispersion

The compositions of Examples 3 to 5 are applied to the lips.

The application of the compositions of Examples 3 and 4 in accordancewith the invention is easy and comfortable. The deposit affords asensation of softness. The deposit produced with composition 3 accordingto the invention is non-tacky. The deposit produced with composition 4is slightly tacky.

The compositions of Examples 3 and 4 produce a glossy uniform makeup onthe lips and have a satisfactory level of wear property of the color.

On the other hand, the composition according to Example 5 not inaccordance with the invention is not homogeneous and is difficult toapply, and does not lead to a uniform makeup deposit. Furthermore, thedeposit produced on the lips with composition 5 is slightly tacky.

EXAMPLE 6 Liquid Lip Formulation

Example 6 according to the invention Ingredients Compounds/commercialrefs. (weight %) Dispersion of Ethylcellulose at 26.2% in water; sodiumlauryl 32.97* ethylcellulose in water sulfate (1.3%) and cetyl alcohol(2.5%) Aquacoat ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer Nonvolatile oilOctyldodecanol 32.97 Non volatile oil Dimethicone (Wacker-Belsil DM 350from 23 Wacker) Thickener Guar gum 0.2 Preservatives Phenoxyethanol andethanol 3.5 Solvent Water 3.06 Thickener Polyvinyl alcohol 0.5Surfactant Mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate 4 (Arlatone2121U from Croda) Water-soluble dyes Disodium salt of fuchsin acid D(CI:17200), 0.3 disodium salt of tartrazine (CI:19140) and trisodiumsalt of Allura Red (CI:16035) Total: 100 *Expressed as weight ofcommercial product.

Preparation Protocol

1) The aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose is mixed with thenonvolatile oil with stirring, and the mixture is heated for 1 to 2hours at 55° C.

2) The surfactant is added and the mixture is stirred at 55° C. untilhomogeneous.

3) The guar gum is added until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, andthe resulting mixture is left to cool to room temperature.

4) The nonvolatile silicone oil is then added with continued stirring.

5) The dyes predissolved in water are then added.

6) Finally, the alcohol and the phenoxyethanol are added with stirring.

Result

After 24 hours, the composition of Example 6 has the appearance of avery fluid homogeneous cream. Under microscope observation, thecomposition has the aspect of a clean homogeneous dispersion. Theapplication of the composition of example 6 on the lips is easy andcomfortable. The composition of example 6 produces a glossy uniformmakeup on the lips and have a satisfactory level of wear property of thecolor.

EXAMPLES 7 AND 8 Liquid Lip Formulations

Example 7 Example 8 according According to the to the inventioninvention (weight (weight Ingredients Compounds/commercial refs. %) %)Dispersion of Ethylcellulose at 26.2% in 32.97* 32.97* ethylcellulosewater; sodium lauryl sulfate in water (1.3%) and cetyl alcohol (2.5%)Aquacoat ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer Nonvolatile oil Octyldodecanol 32.9732.97 Non volatile oil Trimethylsiloxyphenyl 11.5 — dimethicone/BelsilPDM 1000 from Wacker Dimethicone (Wacker-Belsil 11.5 DM 350 from Wacker)Dimethicone (Mirasil 500 000 11.5 11.5 from Bluestar) PreservingPhenoxyethanol and ethanol 3.5 3.5 agents Solvent Water 3.26 3.26Surfactant Mixture of sorbitan stearate 4 4 and sucrose cocoate(Arlatone 2121U from Croda) Dyestuffs Red 33 0.135 0.135 Yellow 5 0.0450.045 Red 40 0.12 0.12 Total 100 100 *Expressed as weight of commercialproduct.

Preparation Protocol

1) The aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose is mixed with thenonvolatile polar oil with stirring, and the mixture is heated for 1 to2 hours at 55° C.

2) The surfactant is added and the mixture is stirred at 55° C. untilhomogeneous.

3) The Dimethicone (Mirasil 500 000 from Bluestar) and thePolyphenyltrimethylsiloxy dimethylsiloxane (Wacker-Belsil PDM 1000 fromWacker) (Example 7) or the Dimethicone (Wacker-Belsil DM 350 fromWacker) (Example 8) is homogenized at room temperature.

4) The mixture thus obtained is then added to the mixture containing theethylcellulose, with continued stirring.

5) The dyes/pigments predissolved in water are then added.

6) Finally, the alcohol and the phenoxyethanol are added with stirring.

Evaluation of the Formulas

The tacky aspect of each of the formulas thus obtained was evaluatedaccording to the protocol defined below.

Protocol for Evaluating the Tack

A sample of each of the compositions was spread while hot onto acontrast card so as to form a film 150 μm thick.

The tacky nature on the finger was evaluated during drying of theformula after one hour and 24 hours at room temperature (25° C.). To dothis, a finger was applied, after the specified drying time, onto theapplied formula and the tack was assessed by the person on removal oftheir finger from the applied formula.

The aspect of the composition and the aspect of the deposit, and alsothe gloss properties of the deposit, were also evaluated.

Result

A fluid, airy mixture is obtained for the compositions of Examples 7 and8.

The compositions of Examples 7 and 8 are applied to the lips. They arecomfortable on application (easy to apply and glide on application) andthe deposits obtained are slightly tacky.

For each of the compositions of Examples 7 and 8, the makeup depositsobtained are thin and light, have very good gloss and gloss remanence(especially over 1 hour) on the lips, and also a satisfactory wearproperty of the color.

For the composition of Example 7, the mixture obtained is morehomogeneous than for the composition of Example 8, for which the textureis slightly granular.

EXAMPLES 9 AND 10 Liquid Lip Formulations

Example Example 8 9 according according to the to the inventioninvention Ingredients Compounds/Commercial refs. (weight %) (weight %)Dispersion of Ethylcellulose at 26.2% in water; sodium 32.97* 32.97*ethylcellulose in lauryl sulfate (1.3%) and cetyl alcohol water(2.5%)/Aquacoat ECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer Nonvolatile oilOctyldodecanol 32.97 32.97 Solvent Water 3.26 3.26 Surfactant Mixture ofsorbitan stearate, sucrose 4 4 cocoate/Arlatone 2121U from CrodaDyestuffs Red 33 0.135 0.135 Yellow 5 0.045 0.045 Red 40 0.12 0.12Silicone oil Polyphenyltrimethylsiloxydimethylsiloxane 11.5 —(viscosity: 1000 cSt-MW: 3000 g/mol)/ Wacker-Belsil PDM 1000 from WackerDimethicone (Wacker-Belsil DM 350 from — 11.5 Wacker) OrganopolysiloxaneDimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl 11.5 11.5 elastomer dimethiconecrosslinked polymer (KSG 16 from Shin-Etsu) Preserving agentPhenoxyethanol and ethanol 3.5 3.5 Total 100 100 *Expressed as weight ofcommercial product.

Preparation Protocol

1) The aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose is mixed with thenonvolatile polar oil with stirring, and the mixture is heated for 1 to2 hours at 55° C.

2) The surfactant is added and the mixture is stirred at 55° C. untilhomogeneous.

3) The organopolysiloxane elastomer and the Polyphenyltrimethylsiloxydimethylsiloxane (Wacker-Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker) (Example 9) or theDimethicone (Wacker-Belsil DM 350 from Wacker) (Example 10) ishomogenized at room temperature.

4) The mixture thus obtained is then added to the mixture containing theethylcellulose, with continued stirring.

5) The dyes/pigments predissolved in water are then added.

6) Finally, the alcohol and the phenoxyethanol are added with stirring.

Evaluation of the Formulas

The tacky aspect, the aspect of the composition, the aspect of thedeposit, and the gloss properties of the deposit were evaluated for eachof the formulas thus obtained, according to the protocol described inExamples 7 and 8.

Result

A fluid, homogeneous mixture is obtained for the compositions ofExamples 9 and 10.

The compositions of Examples 9 and 10 are applied to the lips. They arecomfortable on application (easy to apply and glide on application) andthe deposits obtained are not tacky.

For each of the compositions of Examples 9 and 10, the makeup depositsobtained are homogeneous, thin and light, have very good gloss and glossremanence (especially over 1 hour) on the lips, and also a satisfactorywear property of the color.

EXAMPLES 11 TO 13 Preparation of the MQTpr Siloxane Resins

The following resins are used:

MQ resin=an MQ resin of formula M^(0.43)Q^(0.57) and of Mn=3230dissolved in xylene to a proportion of 70.8% by weight of solids. The MQresin was manufactured according to the techniques described by Daudt inpatent U.S. Pat. No. 2,676,182.

T Propyl resin=a propyl silsesquioxane resin at 74.8% by weight intoluene. The propyl silsesquioxane resin was obtained by hydrolysis ofpropyltrichlorosilane.

Preparation of the MQT^(Pr) resins

An MQ resin, a T propyl resin, xylene and 1M KOH in water in theproportions presented in Table 1 are introduced into a 3-necked flaskequipped with a stirrer, a temperature probe and Dean-Stark apparatusmounted with a condenser. Xylene is pre-introduced into the Dean-Starkapparatus so as to ensure maintenance of a level of solids of 50% in thereactor. The mixture in the reactor is refluxed (between 100 and 140°C.) for at least 3 hours. Any water formed in the reaction mixture iscontinuously removed and trapped in the form of an azeotrope in theDean-Stark apparatus. After refluxing for 3 hours, the water is removedfrom the apparatus and heating is continued for a further 30 minutes.After cooling the mixture, an excess of acetic acid is added toneutralize the KOH in the mixture. The mixture is then filtered toremove the salts formed, by passing it through a filter under pressure.Solvent exchange is performed by heating the mixture in a rotaryevaporator under vacuum. After removing the majority of the xylene,decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (or isododecane) is added while continuingto remove any residual aromatic solvent. The structures of the resultingsiloxane resins are characterized by ²⁹Si NMR spectroscopy and GPC, andthe results are summarized in Table 2 below.

TABLE 1 Mass ratio of Weight % Weight % Weight % MQ/T^(Pr) resins of MQof T propyl Weight % Weight % of of acetic Example added resin resin ofxylene 1M KOH acid 1-a (85/15) 59.4 10.5 29.1 0.9 0.2 1-b (50/50) 34.934.8 29.1 0.9 0.2 1-c (30/70) 20.9 48.8 29.2 0.9 0.2 1-d (95/5)  67.13.5 28.3 0.9 0.2 1-e (100/0)  69.3 0 28.8 0.9 0.2

TABLE 2 Resin structure according to Weight NMR % of Examplecharacterization OH Mn Mw Mw/Mn MQ Resin M^(0.43)Q^(0.57) 3230 1516 4.7T Propyl T^(Pr) _(1.0) 7.0 3470 11 400 3.3 resin 1-a M_(0.374)Q_(0.529):1.4 5880 271 000 46.1 T^(Pr) _(0.097) 1-b M_(0.248)Q_(0.341): 2.1 6640 3860 000 581.3 T^(Pr) _(0.412) 1-c M_(0.162)Q_(0.217): 1.5 7600 25 300000 3329 T^(Pr) _(0.621) 1-d M_(0.419)Q_(0.5485): 1.5 T^(Pr) _(0.03) 1-eMQ 1.7 5200 28 900 5.6

Examples of Liquid Lip Formulations

Example 12 Example 11 According to Example 13 according to the(according to the invention invention the invention) IngredientsCompounds/commercial refs. (weight %) (weight %) (weight %) Dispersionof Ethylcellulose at 26.2% in water; 32.97* 32.97* 32.97* ethylcellulosein sodium lauryl sulfate (1.3%) and water cetyl alcohol (2.5%) AquacoatECD 30 from FMC Biopolymer Nonvolatile oil Octyldodecanol 32.97 32.9732.97 Solvent Water 3.26 3.26 3.26 Surfactant Mixture of sorbitanstearate and 4 4 4 sucrose cocoate (Arlatone 2121U from Croda) DyestuffsRed 33 0.135 0.135 0.135 Yellow 5 0.045 0.045 0.045 Red 40 0.12 0.120.12 Nonvolatile oil Trimethylsiloxyphenyl 20.5 — — dimethicone/BelsilPDM 1000 from Wacker Dimethicone (Wacker-Belsil — 20.5 11.5 DM 350 fromWacker) Silicone resin Trimethyl siloxysilicate resin 2.5 2.5 — (SR 1000from Momentive Performance Materials) MQ-T propyl resin (30/70) at 11.5(7.18% 701.3% in isododecane, as active material prepared in Example 1-Cabove in 4.32% of isododecane) Preserving Phenoxyethanol and ethanol 3.53.5 3.5 agent Total 100 100 100 *Expressed as weight of commercialproduct.

Preparation Protocol

1) The aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose is mixed with thenonvolatile polar oil with stirring, and the mixture is heated for 1 to2 hours at 55° C.

2) The surfactant is added and the mixture is stirred at 55° C. untilhomogeneous.

3) The silicone resin is dispersed in the Polyphenyltrimethylsiloxydimethylsiloxane (Wacker-Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker) (Example 11) or inthe Dimethicone (Wacker-Belsil DM 350 from Wacker) (Examples 12 and 13)at room temperature.

4) The mixture thus obtained is then added to the mixture containing theethylcellulose, with continued stirring.

5) The dyes/pigments predissolved in water are then added.

6) Finally, the alcohol and the phenoxyethanol are added with stirring.

Evaluation of the Formulas

The tacky aspect, the aspect of the composition, the aspect of thedeposit, and the gloss properties of the deposit were evaluated for eachof the formulas thus obtained, according to the protocol described inExamples 7 and 8.

Result

A fluid, homogeneous mixture is obtained for the compositions ofExamples 11, 12 and 13.

The compositions of Examples 11, 12 and 13 are applied to the lips. Theyare comfortable on application (easy to apply and glide on application)and the deposits obtained are not tacky.

For each of the compositions of Examples 11, 12 and 13, the makeupdeposits obtained are homogeneous, thin and light, have very good glossand gloss remanence (especially over 1 hour) on the lips, and also asatisfactory wear property of the color.

1-18. (canceled)
 19. A cosmetic composition comprising, in aphysiologically acceptable medium: at least 5% by weight of water; atleast alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 1 and6 carbon atoms; at least a first nonvolatile oil chosen from siliconeoils and/or fluoro oils; and at least a second hydrocarbon-basednonvolatile oil, chosen from: C10-C26 alcohols; optionally hydroxylatedmonoesters, diesters or triesters of a C2-C8 monocarboxylic orpolycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; esters of a C2-C8 polyol andof one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids.
 20. The composition as claimed inclaim 19, wherein the alkylcellulose is present in a content of between1% and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.21. The composition as claimed in claim 19, wherein the alkylcelluloseis present in a content of between 5% and 30% by weight, relative to thetotal weight of the composition.
 22. The composition as claimed in claim19, wherein the alkylcellulose is present in a content of between 5% and20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
 23. Thecomposition as claimed in claim 19, wherein the alkylcellulose is chosenfrom methylcellulose, ethylcellulose and propylcellulose.
 24. Thecomposition as claimed in claim 19, wherein the alkylcellulose isethylcellulose.
 25. The composition as claimed in claim 19, wherein saidfirst nonvolatile oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils and fluorooils.
 26. The composition as claimed in claim 19, said compositioncomprising a content ranging from 5% to 75% by weight of firstnonvolatile silicone oil(s) and/or fluoro oil(s)t, relative to its totalweight.
 27. The composition as claimed in claim 19, said compositioncomprising a content ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to itstotal weight.
 28. The composition as claimed in claim 19, saidcomposition comprising a content ranging from 15% to 30% by weight,relative to its total weight.
 29. The composition as claimed in claim19, wherein said nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based “second oil” is chosenfrom: C10-C26 monoalcohols, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol,cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol,oleyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearylalcohol), behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol,2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixturesthereof; optionally hydroxylated monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acidand of a C2-C8 alcohol; optionally hydroxylated diesters of a C2-C8dicarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, such as diisopropyl adipate,2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate or diisostearyl adipate;optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C2-C8 tricarboxylic acid and of aC2-C8 alcohol, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate,triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, tributyl citrate or acetyltributyl citrate, esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8carboxylic acids, such as glycol diesters of monoacids, such asneopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol triesters of monoacids, such astriacetin.
 30. The composition as claimed in claim 19, wherein saidnonvolatile hydrocarbon-based second oil(s) are present in a totalcontent ranging from 5% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weightof the composition.
 31. The composition as claimed in claim 19, whereinsaid nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based second oil(s) are present in a totalcontent ranging from 10% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weightof the composition.
 32. The composition as claimed in claim 19, whereinsaid nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based second oil(s) are present in a totalcontent ranging from 20% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weightof the composition.
 33. The composition as claimed in claim 19, whereinsaid nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based second oil and the alkylcellulose areused in the composition according to the invention in a nonvolatilehydrocarbon-based second oil(s)/alkylcellulose weight ratio of between 1and
 20. 34. The composition as claimed in claim 19, wherein saidnonvolatile hydrocarbon-based second oil and the alkylcellulose are usedin the composition according to the invention in a nonvolatilehydrocarbon-based second oil(s)/alkylcellulose weight ratio of between 2and
 15. 35. The composition as claimed in claim 19, wherein saidnonvolatile hydrocarbon-based second oil and the alkylcellulose are usedin the composition according to the invention in a nonvolatilehydrocarbon-based second oil(s)/alkylcellulose weight ratio of between 3and
 10. 36. The composition as claimed in claim 19, said compositioncomprising between 5% and 80% by weight of water, relative to the totalweight of the composition.
 37. The composition as claimed in claim 19,said composition comprising between 15% and 50% by weight of water,relative to the total weight of the composition.
 38. The composition asclaimed in claim 19, said composition comprising: between 4% and 30% byweight of alkylcellulose, between 15% and 50% by weight of water,between 45% and 75% by weight of nonvolatile oils.
 39. The compositionas claimed in claim 19, said composition comprising at least onedyestuff.
 40. The composition as claimed in claim 19, said compositioncomprising at least one compound chosen from fillers, waxes, pasty fattysubstances, semicrystalline polymers and/or lipophilic gelling agents,silicone gums, organopolysiloxane elastomers and silicone resins, andmixtures thereof.
 41. The composition as claimed in claim 19, saidcomposition being in liquid form.
 42. The composition as claimed inclaim 19, said composition being in the form of an oil-in-wateremulsion.
 43. The composition as claimed in claim 19, said compositionbeing a composition for making up and/or caring for the lips or theskin.
 44. The composition as claimed in claim 19, said composition beinga lipstick.
 45. A cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for theskin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step that consists inapplying to the skin and/or the lips at least one compositioncomprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least 5% byweight of water; at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of whichcomprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms; at least a first nonvolatile oilchosen from silicone oils and/or fluoro oils; and at least a secondhydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil, chosen from: C10-C26 alcohols;optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a C2-C8monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; esters ofa C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids.
 46. A cosmeticprocess for making up and/or caring for the lips, comprising at leastone step that consists in applying to the lips at least one cosmeticcomposition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at leastwater; at least alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprisesbetween 1 and 6 carbon atoms; at least a first nonvolatile oil chosenfrom silicone oils and/or fluoro oils; and at least a secondhydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil, chosen from: C10-C26 alcohols;optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a C2-C8monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; esters ofa C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids.
 47. A processfor preparing a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptablemedium: at least 5% by weight of water; at least alkylcellulose, thealkyl residue of which comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms; at leasta first nonvolatile oil chosen from silicone oils and/or fluoro oils;and at least a second hydrocarbon-based nonvolatile oil, chosen from:C10-C26 alcohols; optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters ortriesters of a C2-C8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of aC2-C8 alcohol; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8carboxylic acids, wherein the alkylcellulose is used therein in the formof a stable aqueous dispersion.